Eat Like Ushi

My Airbnb was a good 20-25min walk down the lake from the city centre. It wasn't the most convenient location but luckily for quickly available food, there was a Don Luis around the corner. I'd read about this place but didn't realise it was so close. Once inside, there were "croissants" which were surprisingly very sweet and some delicious empanadas (with chicken or spinach) that were cold and they couldn't heat up. Even the bread options were quite limited especially for first thing in the morning. It seemed quite odd to have such a limited range.

Later in the day I discovered what happened. Further down the road towards town (about 15min walk) was the real Don Luis. A large space including half of it dining area. There were showcases of cakes, breads, savoury items that you expect from a large well reputed bakery. Of particular note were the exceptional pies of which I took two large slices home to reheat in the oven. One was chicken slivers with boiled eggs and the other spinach, vegetables and cheese. Both were excellent with a wealth of texture and flavour. What was more impressive was the pastry with soft and chewy on the bottom, crispy on top, and the perfect thick combination of both on the outer crust. Easily one of the best crusts I've had and very happy and indulgent to eat the crust alone.

When in Patagonia, eat lamb. I had tried so many renditions already in Patagonia - delicious rare grilled chops at Afrigonia, small pieces in a crepe at Viva la Pepa, stew/pie form at Pura Vida. But finally leaving until last the classic crucified slow charcoal roasted lamb probably had the highest expectation. La Tablita is known for its form with lamb (and other general parilla meats) but obviously being in Patagonia, there was a clear focus of the visit.

Particularly with some form of renovation outside, the building is rather unattractive. Inside is a little better with white table service and glaring sunlight through the front windows. The most interesting places to observe are through two glass panels, one of which showcases the lamb surrounding a pit of charcoal and the other where the asador grills everything on the parrilla.

I think it is quite disappointing to see things on the menu like pasta. This is a grill place and they shouldn't be trying to cater toward an entire whimsical tourist market. In any case, the reputation did bring me here more than seeing that on the menu urging me to leave. And it is a good thing I stayed.

- Mix Classico ARS535 - 3 meats including the revered Patagonian Lamb (immaculately tender meat with crisp skin from lower leg, shoulder, rib. There was also vertebrae/spine which is a first and similar to ox tail in presentation), two large cuts of beef rump (excellently medium rare, tender and full of flavour) and two pieces of splayed grilled chicken (charred skin, succulent and delicious). All meats seemed to have simple natural flavours to let the meat speak for themselves;
- Morcilla ARS65 - I hadn't tried an Argentinian version at this point so it was quite exciting. It was a fat sausage with a thin but crisp skin housing a soft creamy centre with a very mild taste compared to the stronger pork and blood flavour I'm used to. Apparently parrillas make their own and so each place will be different and this one was excellent quality;
- Chef salad (carrot, palm hearts, green apple, walnuts, olives, celery, cheese) ARS125 - a naked salad to add your own oil and vinegar was much needed for contrast and cut through some of the meat.

This was clearly illustrating a combination of the skill of Argentinian parrilla as well as the quality of local meats (particularly lamb). I left happy and with a small plate of leftover beef rump.

You might find many of the reviews for this place under the name Ovejitas. That's the name of the chocolatier that shares the same premises at Acuarela the icecream maker. The Airbnb host made mention of an icecream place that is also a chocolate place and The Rough Guide also mentioned it as the best icecream in town. On the final night walking the 30mins from La Tablita back to the accommodation, I was glad to see it still open around 9pm.

I had two missions - the try the calafate berry and the chocolate. I had read about both and it seemed fitting to have calafate in El Calafate (given the berry was not in season in November) and the chocolate is called Chocolate Patagonico which means they are proud of it too. Both were exceptional - the chocolate was dark, rich and not too sweet whilst the calafate was tangy, sweeter with that distinct berry flavour similar to a blueberry with a little extra tart of a blackberry. The textures were thick and creamy and no crystals detected.

Although expensive, they really pack the scoops including stuffing the cone right to the end.

A local gem and one to add to the collection.

For something a little different and open during the mid-afternoon siesta period (or to kill time waiting for a bus - as a couple of German girls were sitting for hours using phone WiFi), Viva la Pepa specialised in crepes. Not such the standard ones with fruit and Nutella, but savoury ones also. Perhaps it's been what I'm exposed to, but I expected it to be somewhat similar to the Asian ones where there's a giant visible circular hot plate and a tiny broom to spread it around before it being folded into a little cone.

That may well be the case out the back, but the front veneer is a homely colourful array with an outdoor section that's equally visual. The staff (probably family run) are pleasant and lovely and hospitable.

Coffee was a little bitter but didn't need any sugar and came served with carefully selected Smarties (or whatever they are called in Argentina).

The crepes were the obvious highlight though and they didn't disappoint. The large squares were perfectly cooked with grilled sides and a luscious chewy texture that was magnified along the bottom where the pieces stacked. It was simply the best quality crepe I've had (admittedly I don't eat them that much) and the thicker cut I enjoyed immensely. They are served with a sample of the ingredients on top which helps visual appeal and also identifying which is which.

- Lamb, mustard, spring onion, bacon & cream ARS185 - this was the recommended lamb crepe when I asked and it didn't disappoint. Cubes of lamb that tasted like it may have been previously roasted served with mustard, Spanish onion, spring onion and relatively fatty bacon. The bacon probably wasn't that necessary but the rest reminded me slightly of a souvlaki;
- Blue cheese, cheese, walnuts, parsley ARS145 - the blue cheese was relatively mild in strength and the creamy mixed cheese texture was complemented well by the crunch of walnuts.

The food and setting are great and cute. I could think of no better place in town to spend a few hours or many more if waiting for something.

When in Patagonia, eat lamb. The roast lamb is the most famous but any form must be tried. Pura Vida is known to be different from other restaurants in El Calafate in that it serves homestyle cooking. The Airbnb hostess mentioned various restaurants in town but also quipped that they cook these things themselves and so never try them in the restaurants.

Whereas La Tablita is the recommended place for traditional Patagonian roast lamb, Pura Vida is known for lamb stew.

Upon arrival there's an immediate serve of an enormous bread sphere. It cuts and feels like a cake and it simple but would do better with something to absorb. Perhaps a stew...

- Cazuela de Cordero Patagonico (chopped lamb stew with pine mushrooms, black olives, onion in a white wine & cream sauce covered with puff pastry) ARS270 - as much as my excitement, I found this disappointing. The lamb pieces were soft and quite tender but no different to any I've had elsewhere. The most flavour came from the very juicy and delicious mushrooms more than anything else. Unlike a "stew" it was devoid of liquid which I had saved bread for and only a single layer of sparse filling underneath a big amount of crust. The crust made it more of what I consider a pie and although very buttery tasting, the crust had burnt edges;
- Pastel de Berenjenas (eggplant, mashed potato, cheese, basil, tomato & gratin parmesan cheese) ARS190 - this seemed to me an unseasoned stack of vegetable wedged between sliced grilled eggplant on the top and bottom;
- salad of lettuce, carrot, tomato, onion, spinach, cabbage, arugula, corn, beetroot, celery, egg, apple & raisins ARS67 - the waitress said the servings were large and so was happy to offer a half size (which was a perfect side portion). The salad was simple and had lots of contrast of vegetables, but came undressed (like all salads so far in Chile and Argentina) and EVOO and balsamic bottles were given.

Overall I was disappointed with the meal here. Perhaps other dishes might be better (like Granny's Lentil Stew) but for the price I didn't think the quality and cooking were good enough.

On a lazy and cool evening, having dining options a short walk away is so valuable. Even though other further out places were higher on my list (Liguria, Borago) and one close was closed on Mondays (Bajo Llave), Mulato still looked a good option even if I couldn't get their online menu from 2014 to open. I had them listed as heavy on local produce and very creative in their dishes.

Approaching the restaurant, the beats of drums and shrills of dancing women filled the air and the public space outside the restaurant. It was an entertaining distraction for the first 15mins of arrival. After that the focus was all on food. I really wanted to erizos (sea urchin) but unfortunately they didn't have any available that evening. Shame. But from there things went way up in satisfaction.

The berry juice (CLP2,400) was fresh and frothy and very dark blue/purple. I thought it may be blackberry but didn't have the sharpness and was more sweet. I couldn't really detect blueberries either. In the end I had to just accept it was a local berry or mix that was mildly but perfectly sweet and very refreshing.

The complementary dark bread was rustic and earthy and served with a type of savoury aioli. I asked about the bread and the waiter didn't know the English word for what it was made from ("flavour?" he said). I thought the Spanish words he used was "arina terigal" but I can't find anything online so will remain in the dark. It was fantastic bread, dark but not dense like rye.

- Salmon sellado en polvo de cochayuyo, servido con pure de habas y vegetables de temporado CLP10,600 - seared and beautifully rare salmon coated in a very mild salty seaweed, served on a slightly smoky fava bean puree (that looked like incredibly green like avocado or peas) and some vegetables;
- Congrio, constillar ahumado, choritos con crema de pullmay, milcao relleno de mariscos y papas chilotas CLP13,600 - beautifully soft and perfectly cooked conger eel/king clip meat, mussels (orange or black meat), a smoked ham rib and some wonderful Chiloe black potatoes (more of a yam texture internally) and delicious roasted carrots. I've since discovered milcao is a type of potato cake from Chiloe region but it was more like the texture of soggy dense bread and the seafood stuffing wasn't too distinguishable. I'm not sure what pullmay cream is but the seafood broth was potent, rich and delicious with elements of smoked ham and the seafood. This would be a perfect ramen broth in another form... (David Chang may have tried with his smoked ham version but I think could learn from this one);
- Ensalada de Camarones y frituras CLP8,200 - fried prawns salad with greens and boiled egg. The prawns were quite dense and chewy and moreso after they got colder. I think fresh boiled/steamed prawns would have complemented the salad better and added more prawn sweetness. There was only a slight amount of dressing but the EVOO and balsamic accompaniments allowed more freedom.

There's other fantastic sounding dishes such as Southern hake with crab claw and scallops, but only so much you can eat.

I'd happily come back here again to try new things and hope erizos is available.

Although perhaps not the most haute cuisine, I had read a lot about the local experience of lomito - Chile's pork sandwich that is iconic and an experience. The best of the lot (in Santiago at least) reputedly belongs to Fuente Alemana, which was conveniently close to where I stayed in Bellas Artes. The other sandwich contender is chacarero - a beef equivalent. In short these are essentially burger buns filled with meats and topped with your selection of things.

Fuente Alemana has been serving the masses for years and the artform is well known. After taking a seat around the square, you can order if you know what you want. If you don't, there's an English translated menu. Otherwise the more comprehensive menu is above the cashier in Spanish (and if you can read it, has many more options). After ordering, the waitress will confirm what toppings you want - if you don't understand, just agree. They know what to add. Luckily I knew what I wanted, because the chacarero is not listed on the English menu.

The classic completo lomito (CLP4,600) comes with sauerkraut, tomatoes and loads of mayonnaise. The pork sits in a vat near the grill and is removed to order, basted occasionally then loaded into the bread. It's a simple taste of each individual ingredient - boiled mildly salted pork, tomato, cabbage and loads of mayonnaise. I thought it would come with avocado also and in hindsight I would have added that.

The chacarero (CLP5,700) is made from pieces of medium-rare steak straight from the grill, topped with fresh tomato, soft boiled green beans and loads of mayo (theme here...). This is in my opinion a much better sandwich, with again just the individual ingredients singing out their own flavours. I guess I liked the steak a bit more than the pork and the green beans much more than the sauerkraut.

The bread is grilled also, but otherwise a plain burger bun - there is no brioche going on here. The mustard is seeded, a bit sweet but lacking any of the true tang of American or nose-firing hit of Dijon/English. I added some to the plate to swathe bits of meat around for some extra contrast. I ate in clean fashion with a knife & fork (as were the locals around me). The knife also helps to remove some of the excess mayonnaise.

After eating, the waitress gives you the bill. You can tip her directly at this point. Then proceed to the counter to pay the bill. After this, give the waitress back the newly stamped bill. Don't ask me why, it's what they do there.

Overall it was a large and satisfying brunch. Next time I would order the chacarero again. However they are best known for the lomito and so if having that again, I'd order the completo lomito with avocado (palto). Alternatively I'd try the modern-style chacarero I had on my list at the nearby Ciudad Vieja in Bellavista.

There are little cafes all over the place and one of the great things about having a familiar app like Zomato in the region means it is easier to see what is around rather than the other method of Google searches and review articles. Mosqueto had a good rating, nice staff and a pleasant looking setup.

I was only there after a search for coffee saw their machine through the window. The takeaway latte was very bitter and strong (did not seem burnt) and too much for the Melbourne tastes. They did give quite a bit of sugar and biscuits with it, so perhaps that's how it is taken locally.

If ever in the area, I'd go back for a meal and another drink or dessert (their cheesecake in the case looks tempting) and just watch people scurry past from out of the Bellas Artes metro.

A good local bakery is essential to any neighbourhood. One that has been around since 1884 is also promising too. It's a chain and I tried the one in Bellas Artes at the corner of Merced and Mosqueto.

Unfortunately the bread quality isn't as good as what I'm used to in Australia and around Europe. The croissant was a small dense little thing, more similar to eating thick buttered bread than the thin flaky French standards. Reading a bit now, what I probably ate was a medialunas rather than a croissant, but the store advertises and sells it as a croissant hence my expectation.

The empanadas and other savoury items were reasonable and generally filled will lots of cheese and ham or sausage. The apple danish was a hollow shell with the tiniest amount of actual apple filling.

There weren't any other bakeries nearby so it was suffice, but far from what I expected.

The first meal was from Mercado Central as planned, but unexpectedly in the form of home cooking. I was aware to keep out of the huge central foodcourt with average tourist-orientated restaurants and waiter touts and to try one of the more local places in the peripheries (to try the dish of caldillo de congrio particularly) but jetlag set in and it seemed more relaxing to cook over a small kitchenette.

With a bit of help from a nearby supermarket for garlic, parsley and lemon (they don't sell alcohol at 5pm which is odd), I managed to prepare the various shellfishes obtained. Specifically I obtained mussels (500g for CLP500 = AUD$1!), clams 500g and "machas" clams 500g (for CLP2500), half-shell scallops (10 for CLP4000) and Chilean abalone called locos (500g for CLP5500). Had I more appetite, I would've also liked to get some fish or congrio and some octopus. I also saw a weird dome of a shellfish where a little beak could be seen opening and closing within it... without knowing it, I wasn't daring enough. I already had enough movement from the clams (which is a great sign of freshness!)

The oddities of each:
- Mussels - some were very large and had the adornment of sea rocks embedded (ie. wild). The meat varies from orange to black (I wondered if this was an off sign, but tasted the same and a restaurant the next day also had black ones). Perhaps it is something about being wild but they all had large digestive tracks present/black stuff;
- Clams - also varied from small/normal size to very large. 
- Machas clams - described in a book as a razor clam (but I'm used to much longer and thinner "pen" ones). They had a lot of grit and in hindsight I should have soaked them for a while first;
- Locos - these abalone-types were the best of the lot. Knife and fork like thick steak and relatively tender after 25mins in simmering water (as instructed by the fishmonger). The flavour was more standard shellfish and less abalone (compared to Australian ones);
- Scallops - quite small meat once the roe and black tracks were removed. Probably could have used a bit more of a rinse too for the grit.

Overall lessions learnt are that the versions in Australia have probably been somewhat cleaned or soaked already and hence less grit (or maybe I just use a good volume of white wine which cleans them out). The flavours were fine but I still thought the quality was a little disappointing. The exception was the locos which are relatively cheap, full of thick meat and delicious.