Hua's Restaurant, Beijing 01-2010

This spicy restaurant was located in an alleyway just behind my hostel. It made for an easy escape in the sub-0 freezing Beijing winds.

The boiled crayfish with chilli (Y5 each) was one of the specialties and the searing hot chilli in the dish was emphasised by giving gloves to peel and eat them fish. It was very hot and the dizzy sweats prevailed, but so did I. The chilli oil burnt through the gloves and getting the heat and odour off my fingers took more than a day. It was an experience.

The braised shark's fin & abalone in soup (Y218) finished off this expensive meal.

The next night I didn't really know where to eat and so ended up back at the familiar place. I think the English in the menu helped my decision in that I know I'd get to eat what I want and the food was good. I ordered cheaper more standard dishes like cumin lamb and boiled chicken.

I left happily fed.

Li Qun Roast Duck Restaurant, Beijing 01-2010

During the entire China trip, the only real food venue I researched was the famous Peking duck. Naturally its home is in Beijing and so I read a few online articles before settling upon a place. What struck me about Li Qun was that the setting is more discreet, amongst the hutongs of Beijing away from the crowds, and it had been recommended by a few people online including Kylie Kwong (who was probably the only Chinese-style celebrity chef I knew of back then).

On a freezing January evening, I braved the cold and dark to find this place. Armed with my Lonely Planet map and a whole lot of clothing, I eventually found the wall inscriptions showing me the way.

This quiet night had me and one other small table as guests. The host attempted in vain to communicate in Mandarin. Eventually she spoke a simple English phrase - "1 person, 1 duck". I nodded my agreement for the approximately $30 course. The ducks were hanging in a brick oven with woodfire licking their skins. One came to my table and was carved and set down alongside wraps, spring onion and hoisin sauce.

I had previously read the traditional Peking way was to eat almost exclusively skin, but this was nicely balanced between skin and tender flesh. In the end I struggled my way heroically through an entire duck before waddling out. In hindsight it was a nice experience, although I can't put any duck in front of the glorious samples from HKK in London (http://eatlikeushi.posthaven.com/hkk-london-04-2013).

In any case if I ever make it back to Beijing, I'll come here and try another place, to see how my tastes may have changed.