Highway Masala, Delhi/Agra 01-2015

It isn't actually in Agra nor Delhi. But the only reason you'll actually stop here is because you are driving between Delhi and Agra and need somewhere to stop for lunch and a toilet. I've heard that all taxi drivers (all over the world really) get commission to bring in roadtripping guests, but I can't imagine this one would as the prices are simply too cheap. Additionally all the other people eating there at this time were Indian, but I'd assume the large parking area would also cater to tourist buses.

There is a nice outdoor seated area in a small garden. An elderly Indian man started asking me about Australia and his friends that live there. I was suspicious of his intentions at first, but it turned out he was being inquisitive and polite and then went about the rest of his day. A father and daughter were dressed immaculately busking in traditional Rajasthani clothes and it's a shame they had disappeared before I managed to get a photo. Unfortunately I didn't see anyone else during the Rajasthan trip who was dressed like this (surprising lack of buskers in tourist areas).

The outdoor area serves cheap as chips quick snacks. The inside seated area is perhaps catered toward the less adventurous or more ravenous, with hot meals cooked to order.

- Bread Pakora – fried bread filled with a unexpected blend of peas;
- Raj Kachori – fried ball filled with potato, topped with yoghurt, pomegranate, coriander sauce, sugar syrup. Wonderful combination of flavours and textures with bright visual appeal;
- Vegetable Biryani – for a roadside pitstop, this was surprisingly good and possibly the best of the trip with minimal oil and excellent vegetable flavours.

I wouldn't have expected to ever say this, but I actually recommend stopping here during the 4 hour Delhi to Agra trip. I'm not sure what other options there are, but this is certainly satisfying and well priced.

Karim's, Delhi 01-2015

After the incredible Jama Masjid (combined with the less incredible enforced tourist fee and unnecessary guide fee) it was time for lunch. Luckily Karim's is very nearby and well reputed from Rough Guide and also online. It would good to see the majority of people dining in the room were Indian, from young families to couples to the older generation.

It's a little confusing at first trying to figure out if all the rooms are the same restaurant or if some are trying to feed off the name of another. They reassured me that each was connected to the same restaurant and this was proven in that all the food came from the same central cooking area - a deep pit of a tandoor, pots of curries and a separate charcoal grill with wafting kebab aromas.

- Seekh kabab – incredibly soft smooth mutton mince grilled on a skewer;
- Mutton burra – chargrilled mutton, very strong meaty flavour, soft and melty gelatinous texture I haven't before seen in mutton let alone from any grilled meat;
- Roti – soft aerated bubbly, thicker base;
- Qeema naan – thin crispy deep flavour;
- Vegetable curry – simple looking but tasty buttery curry.

The couple on the table next to me were expertly devouring by hand the mutton biryani and mutton stew, both of which looked excellent. If I hadn't previously been, I just became a huge fan of mutton and this place does it extraordinarily well.

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Jalebi Wala, Delhi 01-2015

One of the recommended experiences in Old Delhi is the Chandni Chowk trawl. This street is conveniently directly opposite the entrance to the Red Fort and seems to extend all the way to New Delhi station. Despite the road being so long, the dense amount of people and traffic means a short walk is probably enough. Lucky then that Jalebi Wala is located at one of the first intersections and the road the leads on towards the incredible Jama Masjid.

It is a store apparently since 1884. The server informed us there is only two things - jalebi and samosa - in order to specialise and do them as well as possible. And they surely do that.

- Jalebi – sweet sugary honey syrup wrapping a thick batter with a soft core. This is only place in India I tried this, but I can tell this would be one of the best;
- Samosa – ordered this to help fill the lack of breakfast in my stomach and glad I did. It was filled with whole peas tightly bound in the most delicious soft yet crisp seasoned pastry.

There isn't really much more to discuss - if I ever find myself in the area again (which I think is unlikely in this lifetime) I'd certainly drop back here for an energising snack.
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