Eat Like Ushi

Udaipur is India's most romantic city. Within it, the Lake Palace is probably the most romantic place to stay and eat. However for anyone that doesn't want to pay the $800 per night minimum for the privilege of visiting the island, Ambrai would be the most lovely setting to enjoy. The atmosphere is a combination of things - you can see the City Fort and Lake Palace surrounded by the peaceful waters. People bathe in Ambrai ghat as the sun sets.

Turning up unannounced at 6pm ended up well with the last table next to the water available. The colours of the view change throughout the meal - the sunlight disappearing over the city, the dusk hue that welcomes in the night, then the bright lights illuminating the Fort and Lake Palace. On this night Jagmandir Island was hosting a wedding so there were additional lights filling the view and the skies. The food is very good too and no complaints there either. The prices are more expensive than the typical but you're paying for the view, the setting and the location in a tourist hotel.

- Lal Maans (Rajasthani delicacy of mutton with bone cooked in thick Indian spicy gravy garnished with chopped coriander leaves) – supposedly the "perfect" laal mass per reviews and recommendations. It was a very simple, minimally spicy version with some tender meat but also some not so. I think the version at Handi was better and more authentic (although that one was too spicy);
- Ambrai Special Fish (boneless fish in special Indian gravy) – delicious, sweet from some lovely cherries, with the fish heavily cooked but not dry. Best dish of the lot;
- Baigan Bharta (eggplant roasted & cooked with tomatoes, onion, dry spices) – very smokey flavour;
- Garlic Naan (white flour bread stuffed with fresh garlic & topped with butter) & Lachha Naan (multi-layered flour bread baked in clay oven) - as most places in India these were delicious. Not the best I had, but no complaints.

What did disappoint was the service. There wasn't a smile to be had nor any friendly attitude. Service isn't something that I generally rate restaurants upon, but given the prices and clientele it is something that should be better. This was exemplified when paying the bill. For a Rs. 2000 bill I tipped Rs. 200 (which is very generous given the service we had and the guides suggesting 5-10%) - upon seeing this, the waiter looked unimpressedly down and said "is that the tip?" When I said yes, he said nothing, took it and walked off.

I'll happily go back for the food and setting. There's a corner table right on the edge of the dining area where the water edges meet and I'd book that for 2-4 people next time in advance. If the service hasn't improved then I'd be tempted to tip nothing.