The best place to stay in Rome is Trastevere. The only other reasonable option is near the main train station if you need to be conveniently located, but otherwise Trastevere is much more quiet in the evenings and perfect for dinner amongst more locals than tourists.
The accommodation host decided to recommend a new restaurant that only opened in May of that year. He specifically mentioned that it was as local as you could get at that time, as no tourists nor English websites had yet discovered and mentioned it. I suppose knowing a local can occasionally be helpful.
After arriving early, the outdoor seating soon filled with Italians. The all-Italian menu took only a small amount of deciphering and then the food started coming. I think the people around us were amazed two average sized guys could eat (or at least would order) so much food. I think this dawned upon us when the 2 fishburgers arrived and the lovely two people sitting on the table next to us moved their table over so our food could spill onto it. Thanks ladies!
- Cartocci calamari - fried small pieces in a cone;
- Ceviche de pescado;
- Steamed mussels;
- Steamed crab;
- Fishburger;
- Kebab of grilled calamari, prawn, red & yellow peppers, zucchini.
The large trays of fresh seafood expertly being cut and prepared sets this place apart from every other food place I saw in Rome.