Hartwood, Tulum 07-2019

Tulum is apparently now a gourmet capital particularly within the growing region of Cancun and the Yucatan. Reportedly the queues are long for this interesting place which is a 3-wall open kitchen with night security to ensure nothing untoward happens. We braced ourself for a potential wait outside in the July humidity and heat, armed with mosquito repellant. After a 120 peso trip there, we were pleasantly surprised to walk straight in to a table for 2 right in the middle of the action.

It's a beautiful atmosphere eating outside and eventually under the stars. The daily menus are written on boards that are carried around to tables. As the evening settles in, the staff periodically wave around hot coals with incense (I presume) to smoke away the mosquitoes (I also presume) and add some atmosphere and scent. The kitchen is open (obviously) and large flames can be seen from afar.

They are also known for cocktails (240p each) with a few mezcal offers, although I have to admit I was disappointed by these relatively expensive offerings. Mine was Ixchel (mezcal, pineapple, xtabentin - aniseed liquor, lime) but had barely had a smoke. A tequila cocktail Lechuguilla de Jackfruit (tequila blanco, jackfruit, lime) had no jackfruit flavour. Oh well. At least the food is good.

- Gambas Mayas 370p - prawns were outstanding with 4 whole and 1 little headless one underneath. They were grilled perfectly and rich in flavour with crisp edible shells. The sauce was delicious and supposedly made from peanut, pineapple and olive oil sauce (tasted like hoisin). Really spicy chilli salsa underneath;
- Ceviche Yucatan 325p - grouper with a perfect ingredient balance of salty, sweet, tangy lime and a bit of chilli;
- Filete de Pargo - Fish cooked skilfully. Soft and char. Salad quite Thai with basil
- Costillas de Agave 480p - I was tempted by fish or octopus, but ended up with a stack of pork ribs deboned. There was a lot of meat with a sweet agave coating.
- Betabel 140p - flamed beetroots were hot and soft. Skin salted and thinly crisp.

It was easily the most expensive meal we had in Mexico but also delicious, atmospheric and creative. If I had my way, there would just be less American accents around with some piercing the air...