On a lazy and cool evening, having dining options a short walk away is so valuable. Even though other further out places were higher on my list (Liguria, Borago) and one close was closed on Mondays (Bajo Llave), Mulato still looked a good option even if I couldn't get their online menu from 2014 to open. I had them listed as heavy on local produce and very creative in their dishes.
Approaching the restaurant, the beats of drums and shrills of dancing women filled the air and the public space outside the restaurant. It was an entertaining distraction for the first 15mins of arrival. After that the focus was all on food. I really wanted to erizos (sea urchin) but unfortunately they didn't have any available that evening. Shame. But from there things went way up in satisfaction.
The berry juice (CLP2,400) was fresh and frothy and very dark blue/purple. I thought it may be blackberry but didn't have the sharpness and was more sweet. I couldn't really detect blueberries either. In the end I had to just accept it was a local berry or mix that was mildly but perfectly sweet and very refreshing.
The complementary dark bread was rustic and earthy and served with a type of savoury aioli. I asked about the bread and the waiter didn't know the English word for what it was made from ("flavour?" he said). I thought the Spanish words he used was "arina terigal" but I can't find anything online so will remain in the dark. It was fantastic bread, dark but not dense like rye.
- Salmon sellado en polvo de cochayuyo, servido con pure de habas y vegetables de temporado CLP10,600 - seared and beautifully rare salmon coated in a very mild salty seaweed, served on a slightly smoky fava bean puree (that looked like incredibly green like avocado or peas) and some vegetables;
- Congrio, constillar ahumado, choritos con crema de pullmay, milcao relleno de mariscos y papas chilotas CLP13,600 - beautifully soft and perfectly cooked conger eel/king clip meat, mussels (orange or black meat), a smoked ham rib and some wonderful Chiloe black potatoes (more of a yam texture internally) and delicious roasted carrots. I've since discovered milcao is a type of potato cake from Chiloe region but it was more like the texture of soggy dense bread and the seafood stuffing wasn't too distinguishable. I'm not sure what pullmay cream is but the seafood broth was potent, rich and delicious with elements of smoked ham and the seafood. This would be a perfect ramen broth in another form... (David Chang may have tried with his smoked ham version but I think could learn from this one);
- Ensalada de Camarones y frituras CLP8,200 - fried prawns salad with greens and boiled egg. The prawns were quite dense and chewy and moreso after they got colder. I think fresh boiled/steamed prawns would have complemented the salad better and added more prawn sweetness. There was only a slight amount of dressing but the EVOO and balsamic accompaniments allowed more freedom.
There's other fantastic sounding dishes such as Southern hake with crab claw and scallops, but only so much you can eat.
I'd happily come back here again to try new things and hope erizos is available.