At the end of our free walking tour, the guide gave a list of recommendations. He said he didn't really eat octopus often, but there's only two places he would - his grandma and Ora Viva. Considering Portugal's reputation for octopus and the delicious stews I had of it last time, it seemed a strong accolade for a local place to try. It is in the ribeira area but on a back alley rather than facing the Douro, which I suppose arguably means the quality and/or value must be better.
- Grilled octopus €16 - although I took a pretty useless photo (didn't want to stand up), the moderate serving of octopus seemed to have been grilled then oiled and vegetables added. The octopus was very tender, as only the Portuguese (and probably Spanish) do, but not crisp on the outsides (which the Greeks do). Nice overall;
- Shellfish stew €19.5 - a salty saffron seafood soup with lots of little prawns, clams, and a few big ones for measure including a huge green lip mussel (with the meat completely filling the shell). Soft fish too and overall very tasty.
A very good meal overall and well worthy of the recommendation. Serves for 2 are decently cheaper than individual ones, but knowing Portugal there's only so much one can eat and would want to try multiple things (I suppose there's always takeaway...)