Eat Like Ushi

I've been frequently told how Lonsdale Street Roasters has the best coffee in Canberra, almost on par with the Melbourne equivalents. Considering I don't drink coffee and that ONA recently took out the best barista in Australia award, it wasn't the biggest enticement for me. But I knew I'd try the place eventually.

What struck me on the breakfast menu was how few options there are for food. Maybe that's a good thing or maybe I'm just used to being spoilt for choice. However I did note they advertised a BBQ for lunch so maybe that's the go for next time.

The coffee is strong and bitter. As a non-coffee person, I can't appreciate it but I'm told it is very good and the way coffee should be. Unfortunately the chai latte is an overly sweet (though not quite sickening) syrup drink that makes me sad. Luckily the food makes up for the liquid shortcomings.

- Quinoa, corn & "pico de gallo" on sourdough - the healthier, more refreshing option of the dishes with herbs, rocket, quinoa, avocado, tomatoes and corn served on sourdough;
- Sticky Pork Belly Roasters Benedict (served on housemade corn bread with dill hollandaise) with an extra of black pudding - I recently wrote about my joy in finding a breakfast place in Canberra (Me & Mrs Jones) that served black pudding. I'm delighted to say the black pudding here is outstanding - rich, porky, no metallic taste. The pork belly is great also with a caramelised coating, skin that was half crisp and half soft (prefer all crisp if possible) and thick decadent meat. Of the poached eggs, one was great and the other was moderately overcooked, but they soaked into and complemented the corn bread. I probably prefer thick grained sourdoughs but this was a reasonable alternative.

Next time I would order the same Pork Belly Roasters Benedict, more black pudding, or try the Eggs, Beans & Tortia (with black pudding of course). Otherwise I'll go later in the day and see if my BBQ cravings can be satiated. I'll save my drink for a smoothie or an iced coffee or good old Canberra tap water.

After the first visit to Temporada for my birthday 8 months prior, Valentine's day proved to be the second occasion worthy of a visit to this restaurant. Interestingly enough it was the only restaurant I could find (that I wanted to go to) that actually had any availability that evening. Considering I made the booking on a Thursday before the Saturday, I couldn't quite understand why there was a 6pm spare table. Perhaps it was the $75 per head fixed 3-course menu that deterred a few, but this is Canberra where incomes are supposedly high and similarly dining prices are too.

The preface to the set menu was rock oysters, of which the woodgrilled variety is the one clear memory I have from the first visit. Once again they were warm, lightly smokey (lighter than I recall), with the little traces of the mild oyster liquor. The vinaigrette is more of a palate cleanser than a topping for me as I like my oysters strong and plain.

- Roasted Duck Breast (with liver parfait, caramelised whitlof, pickled cherries) - the rare duck was exceptionally flavoured and tender with a creamy and medium strength liver that can almost emulate my memories of meatfruit. Easily one of the best livers I've had. Pickled cherries cut through the heaviness and I was lucky to be granted additional bread slices (which are warm and great in themselves) to smear the parfait;
- Spanner Crab (with chilled gazpacho, heirloom tomato, tomato jelly) - I don't envy the person who had to pick out the crab meat, but I applaud their efforts. The meat was superbly sweet and delicate. It is good enough to eat alone but the various tomato varieties and textures were impressive;
- Woodfired Beef Shortrib (with smoked potato, beetroot, horseradish) - my affection for ribs continued with this tender version that sliced so easily. The potatoes were whipped smooth and had a nice strong smoke flavour that I haven't had before;
- Grilled Swordfish (with pepperonata, octopus, lemon, capers) - the fears I have of overcooked restaurant fish dissipated with the expert handling here. I'm happy to eat swordfish raw usually but this one was cooked beautifully. The octopus added a different texture and flavour;
- Chocolate Ganache (with blood plum sorbet, liquorice, pinenut brittle) - this could be the perfect dessert combination. Rich smooth dark chocolate ganache, tangy slightly sour exceptional sorbet, very mild contrasting liquorice cream and the mother of your standard peanut brittles in an expensive packed pinenut crisp. The flavours and textures were all covered. Maybe add a little chilli next time to take it even further... but it isn't necessary;
- Champagne Chiboust (with strawberry jelly, hazelnuts) - good textures here also with smooth champagne cream, crunchy nut pieces and strawberry bits that had me reminiscing slightly about the strawberry dessert at Akelare (http://eatlikeushi.posthaven.com/akelare-san-sebastian-06-2012).

What a fantastic set course well worth the money and up to the occasion. Thanks Temporada.

The last dinner of the trip was reserved for what was probably the most prevalent name in all the internet recommendations for Alicante. Considering it was awards the best tapas restaurant in Spain at the 2009 Congress of Lo Mejor de la Gastronomia, it isn't surprising that the place is cosy, busy, loud and serving exceptional food.

It was a fantastic place to bring together all of my favourite seafood items into local Spanish tapas style. Wine glasses and jamon hang from the ceiling and the bartenders mix and serve your desires. There is a combination of traditional and modern tapas.

- Ostra special no.4 Gillardeau (1/2 docena) €12.5 - the oysters are from France but it had been a short while since the last time. They were mild strength;
- Sepionets a la planca €8.5 - delicious tender and juicy little squids making eat chewed morsel a memory;
- Atun crudo con citricos y soja €16.5 - one of the few places I found that served raw fish (the best way to eat it!). The tuna had a nice flavour, soft fresh texture and a hint of citrus soy herbs;
- Arroces negro con sepionets, gambita, alcachofas y pimiento rojo €16.5 - squid ink rice with small squids, prawns, artichokes and red peppers as good as it sounds. I wish I had a larger one;
- Mousse chocolate €5.5.

After this dinner, I ended up there the next late afternoon before the night flight back to London.

- Tartar de salmon con eneldo y sesamo €15 - diced salmon with dill and sesame seeds;
- Pulpo al horno con pure de patata €12 - bakes octopus with potato puree.

Both of these were fine but not as memorable as the previous evening. I suppose that's partially my own fault for experimenting with different things rather than the tried and true, but the menu has so many choices (such as prawns, mussels, clams, fish) and I only barely scratched the seafood surface.

In amongst all the traditional tapas places in Alicante, Monastrell stands out for having a modern approach. It shares a building with the TA #1 hotel Amerigo, which I imagine lends itself to having expensive clientele looking for good food and drink at any time of day or evening. Perhaps it is just the name that makes me envisage American business people or flash tourists.

In any case, the class and refined setting of Monastrell didn't deter me although they were very busy with a lot of romantic couples spilling into the corridors the evening before. It was a very different feel around midday just after opening for the day, where one solitary man was enjoying food and a newspaper.

Green olives and a theatrical sliced-bread-in-a-bag with a pipette extra virgin olive oil were presented. Given the holiday opportunity, there was no better time than to kick things off with a red wine cocktail also.

- Tomates de nuestro huerto con burrata y jugo de albahaca (tomatoes from our garden with "burrata" cheese & basil juice) €11 - excellent tomatoes as a modernised salad;
- Bocadillo de calamares "Monastrell" (signature squid sandwich) €14 - a reimagining of toasted flat bread with squid slivers;
- "Roast pork" de presa Iberico con crema de queso manchego, patatas paja y berros (Iberico roast pork with Manchego cheese cream, potato chips & watercress) €16 - the pork reminded me of the texture of sliced beef fillet and contrasted well the fried chips and creamy cheese.

The food is fantastic and the bar setting very refined. The atmosphere is probably more suited to a late evening romantic drinks, but brunch allows a simpler focus on the food. There are so many other menu items I'd like to try - 65 degree huevo, bocadillo de calamares, and if I could afford them, more simple navajas gallegas or gamba roja de Denia.

Around the corner from the guesthouse is Sento. It's a tiny place with a bar for eating and service and an equal number of people standing outside snacking and drinking. Aside from its convenient location, it was listed as TA #2 (I'm sure the location also helped) but also won awards for their tapas in 2013. On this day it was lucky the place was open for an early lunch, as I wouldn't have otherwise been able to fit in all the places on my list.

- bread crisp topped with a fish salad and anchovy;
- Solomillo Pollo (parmesano y crema Italiana) - grilled chicken with parmesan and smothered in thick Modena balsamic;
- potatoes topped with jamon, fried egg and parmesan;
- montadito with beef slices, greens and sauce.

Although I didn't know it at the time, they have a dish called the Lollipop which supposedly won 2013 award for being the best. I'll have to make a trip to try it next time.

Alicante had never appealed to me as a travel destination. Despite my researching Europe trips and looking at the more obscure Ryanair destinations, I only decided upon it at the end of my European life more so because it was an exit terminal after a visit to Valencia. After researching more and more, I began to get more excited. Valencia had the remarkable Ciudad de las Artes y Ciencias and paella, there was a lunch time stopover in Denia for the arguable world's best restaurant Quique Dacosta (http://eatlikeushi.posthaven.com/quique-dacosta-denia-09-2013), the possibility of trying the most renowned paella at Paco Gandia (didn't make it though), and finally exceptional award winning tapas in Alicante.

Apparently Ferran Adria regards Nou Manolin as having some of the best tapas in Spain, which therefore means the world. San Sebastian was in my mind the best tapas I've had so it was a challenge to see how they compared.

The setting is warm and lovely. Food surrounds you as do friendly locals. A large jamon leg is expertly sliced and some prawns and breads line the benches.

- boquerones en vinagre €5- tangy slivers of anchovies;
- gambas rojas a la plancha €17pp - prawns from Denia (possibly the best type in the world after this experience and Quique Dacosta) grilled and topped with salt and lemon. Exceptionally sweet and delicious;
- Piripao (6 montaditos) €12 - a collection of little sandwiches with meats and vegetables. After it arrived it seemed like a rash decision with too much carbohydrates. They were quite simple and not overly exciting;
- nuestras fideuas con rape y almejas €14 - after the paella in Valencia, fideua was something different. I had it once back in 2009 and didn't quite recall whether I liked it or not. This dish was tasty with clam meat and vegetables and the noodles resembled thin chewy Chinese type. Overall I prefer paella but this wasn't bad;
- Crema quemada con frutas €8.

I'd be very happy to return back here and would select prawns, just one montadito and an arroz dish with any combination of seafood.

A good article I found with food recommendations was from the Telegraph (http://www.telegraph.co.uk/travel/destination/spain/34915/Valencia-restaurants.html). I was trying to decide upon a place for my last dinner and after scoping out the beach area during the day, it took a monumental dedication to make the 1 hour walk there again and then back just for food.

The beach places I was considering (La Pepica, L'Estimat, La Rosa) didn't seem to intrigue me as much as hoped. Casa Montana is a highly rated tapas bar with a cosy setting, wine barrels and classic posters. Their anchovies (one of my favourites) and michirones (fava beans) are the specialties. The locals chatting inside, the friendly staff and a front seat to the bar made it the right decision in the end.

- V-2 (2 anchoa, 2 boquerones, 2 mejillones, olivas) - a nice cold platter with anchovies and mussels. They went well with the soft bread;
- Habas Estofados (Michirones) platito €1.9 - small plate of thick fava beans cooked with ham hock;
- Patatas Bravas de Secano platito €1.8 - smooth potatoes so good that the sauce and sour cream are unnecessary;
- Sardina Plancha (1/2 docena) €4.2 - grilled sardines are rarely a first choice for me but they were recommended. They were quite good given that, but next time I'd opt for the Clochinas Valencianas or something else.

A great meal, an excellent setting, a quality house rioja, and a 50min walk back to the hostel whilst contemplating.

Horchata is a fantastic drink. I recall my first taste at a small Mexican/Yucatan restaurants in the Mission district of San Francisco (http://eatlikeushi.posthaven.com/poc-chuc-san-francisco-10-2011). Since then I've taken many opportunities from any restaurant, usually Mexican or Latin American and the one Melbourne cafe. The drinks seem to be a creation of rice, milk and cinnamon into a really lovely refreshing blend.

It was with great interest that Valencia was one of the originators of horchata, and it had a very strong presence around town from shops to restaurants, street stalls and even a few at Ciudad de las Artes y Ciencias by the watersides.

What's different in Valencia is that they are made from tigernuts and so referred locally as horchata de chufa. The best shop in town is reputedly Horchateria de Santa Catalina and very convenient when passing through to the large Placa de la Reina.

The horchata is refreshing and sweet without any hint of sickliness or syrup. The drink didn't last long.

Once in Valencia, the search is for paella. It is a dish that originated in Valencia and is now probably the most associated Spanish food. It is very impressive to see enormous paella pans filled with yellow rice and topped with ingredients. I think the largest I've seen is the reasonable quality version downstairs in Covent Garden.

Valencian paella is different to those typically encountered elsewhere in the world. Whereas most places serve seafood or chorizo-based types, Valencian traditionally uses chicken, rabbit and snails. The best in the world is supposedly at a place called Paco Gandia in Pinoso, which has a rabbit and snail version that brings people there. It is located about 50km from Alicante and unfortunately, as hard as I tried, I couldn't spare the time to get there.

Surprisingly within Valencia itself, finding good reviews for a paella place is difficult. Most comments seem to be about La Pepica, a place along the beach that has mixed ratings from exceptional to terrible. Also in the area are lesser talked about L'Estimat and La Rosa. Within Valencia main township itself, I asked for a recommendation from my hostel and there suggested Ocho y Medio (which translates to 8 and a half).

The restaurant is set in a nice courtyard where you can enjoy the sun, warmth and people watching. Unfortunately the paella lists per person price and the minimum is for 2, which is very typical at most paella places I saw. For this reason I had to get a double which cost €25.80. It was expectantly huge but what can you do...

- Paella Valenciana (with chicken, rabbit, Perona green beans, white beans & snails) - I managed to finish this behemoth much to the amusement and amazement of the families eating around me. Other than a French pair, the rest all seemed to be Spanish. The rice was well cooked and had that excellent crisp bottom. The meats were fine, a little overcooked (unsurprisingly I suppose) and the white beans were a very nice touch.

All-in-all a good paella. Not my favourite ever, but that may just be because the chorizo and seafood ones are flavoured more to my liking than this traditional white meat type. They have several seafood types including prawns, cuttlefish and squid ink.

It was surprising that on a Tuesday night, Chairman & Yip was full. It was lucky there were tables available, but if not Akiba nearby had available tables, music and a neon atmosphere. It made me almost realise the appeal of weekday dining - available parking, quieter streets and restaurants and not having to make advanced bookings.

Anyway it was a good opportunity to try the 3rd of the Chairman group restaurants. I have to admit that the menu interested me the least of the 3, which is why it had been left until last. Fine Cantonese cuisine is something I had only tried in London at HKK (sadly noone was willing to pay the £128+ for the Hakkasan Hanway Place signature menu) and both times were sensational lunch meals most impressively featuring a tea-smoked Peking duck.

The Chef's Tasting menu at Chairman & Yip seemed to feature most of the dishes that interested me on the menu except for the Chairman's Red Curry Chicken, so it was easy to select that as the option. Each dish is brought to the table, and with the exception of the calamari at the start and the lamb and vegetables at the end, the wait staff automatically serve it onto your plate. If it isn't serve on individual plates, I much prefer it to be on a shared central plate to pick off myself. This is only a small thing - maybe it has something to do with the better photo opportunities.

- Fried Calamari with spicy salt & chilli - slightly crispy, nicely fried, salty with occasional slivers of chilli;
- Light-fried King Prawns with sweet chilli vinegar sauce - medium sized prawns topped with something similar to standard honey sauce;
- Sesame crusted salmon with cinnamon infused soy - very nicely cooked salmon with a soy crust, nice thin (would have preferred thicker) rice cakes and a delicious drinkable cinnamon soy. Delicious;
- Roasted duck & shiitake mushroom pancakes - quite disappointing diced duck and mushrooms. A far cry from the great Peking ducks I've had around the world;
- Grilled field mushrooms with herb & cashew pesto - slightly out-of-place dish of a mushroom with a thick pesto on top, served with noodle pieces and continental parsley;
- Spiced eye fillet skewers with lemongrass & galangal dressing - medium-rare tender eye fillet topped with pineapple pieces and a tasty lemongrass sauce;
- Crispy lamb Shan-Tung style (with vegetables & steamed rice) - a large dish to finish with lamb (rib meat I think) tender meat with crispy edges and a strong salty soy dressing. I'd prefer a touch more sour and chilli in the masterstock-type sauce, but it was a very good dish;
- Choice of Dessert - one was a mild flavoured silky Japanese matcha creme brulee with a very thick caramelised top and wispy Persian fairy floss which was overall nice; other was an excellent cinnamon semi freddo (couldn't detect any chilli) with a firm poached pear slice and a great ginger palm syrup (couldn't detect any pandan);
- Coffee or tea - selected a hot chocolate and chamomile tea which was a pleasant civilised end of the meal.

The meal was overall nice but I did feel slightly dissatisfied from a flavour and creativity point of view until the lamb and desserts. I do think Lanterne Rooms is better, and possibly equivalent to Malamay in that some dishes were good and others not so.

Next time I would order a la carte with either calamari or try the Pan-seared Quail for entree and either salmon or lamb or try the Red Curry Chicken for main. The semi freddo is my preferred dessert also.