Eat Like Ushi

I tend to be one who when visiting another country will eat exclusively food that the country is known for. That always means the local or historical specialties and cuisine and much less occasionally the food that the immigrants brought over. Italian food also happens to have a big comfort and familiar side and although I wouldn't get it in Asia, Argentina with its excellent icecream seems to be doing something right in that aspect.

This coupled with Puerto Iguazu not having much exciting dining choice and the feirinha market also looking rather disappointing drove me to La Mamma - conveniently around the corner from the Airbnb and also well rated as cheap and filling on Tripadvisor (#3).

It's pretty rare I'll eat at the same place on any one trip (other than takeaway from a bakery). The last time I can remember was the exceptional Cervejaria Ramiro in Lisbon. Whilst not on the same level, La Mamma is very good.

There's a choice of fresh pasta lined up and sauces (tomato, bolognese, four cheeses) priced by the pasta and sauce weight. There's also a few fixed priced specials like mushrooms, carbonara, seafood etc.

The first night was an extravaganza. After some free basic bread with a red pepper and oil emulsion, the enormous serves of curly pasta with hongos & shitake (ARS170) and red fettucine (made with paprika) bolognese was served. The bolognese sauce was lovely and beefy (unsurprising for Argentina) with rich flavour and no acidity. The mushroom sauce had parsley, cheese and cream but not as heavy as it sounds. For a total of ARS345 (which means mushroom pasta 170, 75 for two drinks, empanada for 15 then 85 for the bolognese) was outstanding value.

For ease dinner was served there the next night. Smaller portions were requested and 3 giant ravioli (with walnuts, jamon & cheese) bolognese and spinach gnocchi with tomato sauce were served. The tomato sauce was much lighter and obviously stronger tomato flavour than the bolognese but still no acidity. They've cooked out those tomatoes long and well. Those two half serves with a salad turned out to be ARS240. It seemed disproportionately expensive compared to the previous night but still extraordinarily cheap by any standard (especially Argentina).

Thanks Mamma.

After very fortunate weather of heat and moderate humidity at Iguazu falls, the late afternoon beckoned some icecream. Luckily there is one right next to the bus station and even more luckily it's artesanal. Like all heladerias in Argentina seem to, there is a large variety of chocolate and dulce de leche and a shorter list of fruit flavours for balance. They keep theirs in silver lids - less for show and more proper.

Chocolate Amargo (dark) was very similar to that in El Calafate - dark, not too sweet, rich and delicious. Frambuesa (raspberry) was expected slightly lighter, sweeter and more tart for contrast.

Similar to the excellent experience in El Calafate, although expensive these people also pack it right down to the bottom of the cone.

I didn't realise Argentina was known for icecream (despite reading it alot about Buenos Aires). I'm glad to have found some along the trip.

Puerto Iguazu is known as a pretty desolate place when it comes to dining. Considering it is a fly-in/fly-out destination purely to see Iguaza falls for a day or two means that it is aimed largely at tourists. There wasn't much to find when reading up about places or things to eat. The main specialty seemed to be local riverfish, of which there are 3 types - the most commonly mentioned is surubi (looks similar to catfish), pacu and dorado.

I had written down to potentially try Aqvi or La Rueda but also that they were pricey and a little fancy. The only other things around on my list were El Quincho del Tio Querido (parrilla) or the feirinha market (which I had just looked at and seemed empty for lunch without much range). The Airbnb host had suggested either Aqvi or Charo (which are across the road from each other) for steak or fish. I didn't feel like a fancy lunch so we decided to try Charo. As you walk towards the place you can see (and smell) the smoke coming from the chimney out the back - it's very enticing.

The menu is large. Helpfully there's a picture of what each fish and each meat item looks like at the front entrance.

- Surubi with Roquefort sauce - the surubi was very well cooked and firm texture but still soft. It's an excellent fish. The blue cheese sauce was quite mild in terms of blue cheese but heavy and strong in terms of salt and flavour;
- French fries a la Provencal - minimally crisp outsides, soft insides cooked with herbs and garlic. Minimal salt was used so had to add some.
- Beef rib - it came sizzling on a hot plate with charcoal under it. The flavour was lovely and natural and mopping up an excess juices off the grill with bread was nice. There were pieces that were soft and tender and others that required much continuous chewing. It certainly wasn't the most tender I've had.

Overall the food was decent. It was good to see a restaurant cook fish decently (considering everything is probably cooked thoroughly). After leaving I walked across the road to look at Aqvi's menu - interestingly the prices there are similar, possibly a little cheaper and although less variety seem more interesting. I'd go there for fish and steak next time (although I doubt I'll ever be in Iguazu again this lifetime).

My Airbnb was a good 20-25min walk down the lake from the city centre. It wasn't the most convenient location but luckily for quickly available food, there was a Don Luis around the corner. I'd read about this place but didn't realise it was so close. Once inside, there were "croissants" which were surprisingly very sweet and some delicious empanadas (with chicken or spinach) that were cold and they couldn't heat up. Even the bread options were quite limited especially for first thing in the morning. It seemed quite odd to have such a limited range.

Later in the day I discovered what happened. Further down the road towards town (about 15min walk) was the real Don Luis. A large space including half of it dining area. There were showcases of cakes, breads, savoury items that you expect from a large well reputed bakery. Of particular note were the exceptional pies of which I took two large slices home to reheat in the oven. One was chicken slivers with boiled eggs and the other spinach, vegetables and cheese. Both were excellent with a wealth of texture and flavour. What was more impressive was the pastry with soft and chewy on the bottom, crispy on top, and the perfect thick combination of both on the outer crust. Easily one of the best crusts I've had and very happy and indulgent to eat the crust alone.

When in Patagonia, eat lamb. I had tried so many renditions already in Patagonia - delicious rare grilled chops at Afrigonia, small pieces in a crepe at Viva la Pepa, stew/pie form at Pura Vida. But finally leaving until last the classic crucified slow charcoal roasted lamb probably had the highest expectation. La Tablita is known for its form with lamb (and other general parilla meats) but obviously being in Patagonia, there was a clear focus of the visit.

Particularly with some form of renovation outside, the building is rather unattractive. Inside is a little better with white table service and glaring sunlight through the front windows. The most interesting places to observe are through two glass panels, one of which showcases the lamb surrounding a pit of charcoal and the other where the asador grills everything on the parrilla.

I think it is quite disappointing to see things on the menu like pasta. This is a grill place and they shouldn't be trying to cater toward an entire whimsical tourist market. In any case, the reputation did bring me here more than seeing that on the menu urging me to leave. And it is a good thing I stayed.

- Mix Classico ARS535 - 3 meats including the revered Patagonian Lamb (immaculately tender meat with crisp skin from lower leg, shoulder, rib. There was also vertebrae/spine which is a first and similar to ox tail in presentation), two large cuts of beef rump (excellently medium rare, tender and full of flavour) and two pieces of splayed grilled chicken (charred skin, succulent and delicious). All meats seemed to have simple natural flavours to let the meat speak for themselves;
- Morcilla ARS65 - I hadn't tried an Argentinian version at this point so it was quite exciting. It was a fat sausage with a thin but crisp skin housing a soft creamy centre with a very mild taste compared to the stronger pork and blood flavour I'm used to. Apparently parrillas make their own and so each place will be different and this one was excellent quality;
- Chef salad (carrot, palm hearts, green apple, walnuts, olives, celery, cheese) ARS125 - a naked salad to add your own oil and vinegar was much needed for contrast and cut through some of the meat.

This was clearly illustrating a combination of the skill of Argentinian parrilla as well as the quality of local meats (particularly lamb). I left happy and with a small plate of leftover beef rump.

You might find many of the reviews for this place under the name Ovejitas. That's the name of the chocolatier that shares the same premises at Acuarela the icecream maker. The Airbnb host made mention of an icecream place that is also a chocolate place and The Rough Guide also mentioned it as the best icecream in town. On the final night walking the 30mins from La Tablita back to the accommodation, I was glad to see it still open around 9pm.

I had two missions - the try the calafate berry and the chocolate. I had read about both and it seemed fitting to have calafate in El Calafate (given the berry was not in season in November) and the chocolate is called Chocolate Patagonico which means they are proud of it too. Both were exceptional - the chocolate was dark, rich and not too sweet whilst the calafate was tangy, sweeter with that distinct berry flavour similar to a blueberry with a little extra tart of a blackberry. The textures were thick and creamy and no crystals detected.

Although expensive, they really pack the scoops including stuffing the cone right to the end.

A local gem and one to add to the collection.

For something a little different and open during the mid-afternoon siesta period (or to kill time waiting for a bus - as a couple of German girls were sitting for hours using phone WiFi), Viva la Pepa specialised in crepes. Not such the standard ones with fruit and Nutella, but savoury ones also. Perhaps it's been what I'm exposed to, but I expected it to be somewhat similar to the Asian ones where there's a giant visible circular hot plate and a tiny broom to spread it around before it being folded into a little cone.

That may well be the case out the back, but the front veneer is a homely colourful array with an outdoor section that's equally visual. The staff (probably family run) are pleasant and lovely and hospitable.

Coffee was a little bitter but didn't need any sugar and came served with carefully selected Smarties (or whatever they are called in Argentina).

The crepes were the obvious highlight though and they didn't disappoint. The large squares were perfectly cooked with grilled sides and a luscious chewy texture that was magnified along the bottom where the pieces stacked. It was simply the best quality crepe I've had (admittedly I don't eat them that much) and the thicker cut I enjoyed immensely. They are served with a sample of the ingredients on top which helps visual appeal and also identifying which is which.

- Lamb, mustard, spring onion, bacon & cream ARS185 - this was the recommended lamb crepe when I asked and it didn't disappoint. Cubes of lamb that tasted like it may have been previously roasted served with mustard, Spanish onion, spring onion and relatively fatty bacon. The bacon probably wasn't that necessary but the rest reminded me slightly of a souvlaki;
- Blue cheese, cheese, walnuts, parsley ARS145 - the blue cheese was relatively mild in strength and the creamy mixed cheese texture was complemented well by the crunch of walnuts.

The food and setting are great and cute. I could think of no better place in town to spend a few hours or many more if waiting for something.

When in Patagonia, eat lamb. The roast lamb is the most famous but any form must be tried. Pura Vida is known to be different from other restaurants in El Calafate in that it serves homestyle cooking. The Airbnb hostess mentioned various restaurants in town but also quipped that they cook these things themselves and so never try them in the restaurants.

Whereas La Tablita is the recommended place for traditional Patagonian roast lamb, Pura Vida is known for lamb stew.

Upon arrival there's an immediate serve of an enormous bread sphere. It cuts and feels like a cake and it simple but would do better with something to absorb. Perhaps a stew...

- Cazuela de Cordero Patagonico (chopped lamb stew with pine mushrooms, black olives, onion in a white wine & cream sauce covered with puff pastry) ARS270 - as much as my excitement, I found this disappointing. The lamb pieces were soft and quite tender but no different to any I've had elsewhere. The most flavour came from the very juicy and delicious mushrooms more than anything else. Unlike a "stew" it was devoid of liquid which I had saved bread for and only a single layer of sparse filling underneath a big amount of crust. The crust made it more of what I consider a pie and although very buttery tasting, the crust had burnt edges;
- Pastel de Berenjenas (eggplant, mashed potato, cheese, basil, tomato & gratin parmesan cheese) ARS190 - this seemed to me an unseasoned stack of vegetable wedged between sliced grilled eggplant on the top and bottom;
- salad of lettuce, carrot, tomato, onion, spinach, cabbage, arugula, corn, beetroot, celery, egg, apple & raisins ARS67 - the waitress said the servings were large and so was happy to offer a half size (which was a perfect side portion). The salad was simple and had lots of contrast of vegetables, but came undressed (like all salads so far in Chile and Argentina) and EVOO and balsamic bottles were given.

Overall I was disappointed with the meal here. Perhaps other dishes might be better (like Granny's Lentil Stew) but for the price I didn't think the quality and cooking were good enough.