The ribeira riverside is an enchanting place to be at night. I'm sure it's busier, more atmospheric but less charming in summer. In the cool slightly rainy evening of October, the embankment was quiet and the illuminated bridge, signs of the port companies and reflections of lamp lights off the rio douro river made it excellent for a stroll.
The cafes along the ribeira itself are supposedly best avoided (as seems to be the case in every major city), but A Grade is on a little street off the main area and reputed for simple home-style cooking. The walk from the Se cathedral down to the embankment is probably the best way, alleys and winding cobblestones leading steeply downwards. Just be aware you'll have to walk back up... in order to not get lost the easiest way is the stairs near the base of the bridge (there's also a funicular if you are there early enough).
- Caldo Verde (cabbage and potato soup)
- Salada Portuguesa (mixed salad with cod)
- Cabrito Assado no Forno (young goat roast in the oven)
- Rojoes a Grade (A Grade pork crackling)
For some reason I had forgotten the main intention there was to try the seafood casseroles and sardine stew. That will have to be the plan for next time. The servings are very generous so I'd skip the soup and entrees and stick to the lovely mains.
Very nearby on the same street is Adega Sao Nicolau, which is supposedly reputed for no frills seafood. Maybe next time.
Next time I would order any of their seafood stews, the reliable roast goat or perhaps try the rabbit stew.