Juuri, Helsinki 01-2013

Most of the Finnish restaurants in Helsinki (apparently there aren't that many to find) tend to be Michelin-star or at least equally expensive. Juuri seemed a change from the pack in that it specialises in a previously unheard of phenomenon called Sapas - defined on their website as an "authentically Finnish hors d’oeuvre, handmade according to Finnish culinary traditions." In summary it is the Finnish equivalent of a Spanish tapas. It seemed reason enough to try it above another more standard fine dining place (of which I would have chosen Olo).

I'm quite unfamiliar with Finnish food traditions but after what I've had in the previous two days it seems to be fresh fish, game meats and lots of local berries. The waiter suggested 4-7 sapas dishes for a meal without a main course. It is one of the reasons I like tapas or small-dish menus when eating alone so I can try several things without stuffing myself.

- start of smoked perch mousse - heavily smoked fish cream;
- Beetroot Salad Juuri-style - very unusual take on salad with a square of boiled beetroot, pickled carrot and served with dehydrated slices of pickle;
- Baked Oregano Cottage Cheese (with gooseberry and green pepper jam) - Finnish cheese always seems mild and this was no exception without much discernible cheese taste;
- Smoked Bream & Potato Mousse (with fried rye dough) - a regretted recommendation as it was a milder form of the starter and the fried rye dough was a poor uncrispy form of bread;
- Seared Fillet of Horse (with horseradish & marinated red cabbage) - beautifully rare meat like a quality beef tataki but with a much milder game flavour compared with my previous horse meals. Couldn't taste any horseradish, but the red cabbage and onion added balance;
- Black Pudding with Lingonberry - bed of lingonberry sauce which uses tartness to neutralise the salty crisp black pudding;
- Red Currant Pie with Butter Milk (red currant sorbet, red currant curd) - refreshing and sweet sorbet and a nice red currant layer, but an odd thick heavy base and extremely sweet meringue.

Next time I would order the Fillet of Horse and Black Pudding. I think it would be best complimented by a formal main course (like Slow Cooked Neck of Wild Boar) for two reasons - 1) none of the sapas (I tried at least) are that remarkable; 2) very few are served hot (black pudding was warm, all others were room temperature). It makes you wonder if you should end up at that Michelin-star restaurant after all...