Neil Rankin @ John Salt, London 02-2013

My favourite London food place of 2012 had to be Pitt Cue Co. Neil Rankin was the ex-head chef of Pitt Cue Co before moving on to other ventures. His latest was moving into the bar John Salt in Angel. Although the menu didn't seem to feature the complete meat focus of Pitt Cue Co, it looked like a great reason to try for a special occasion in February.

Their is a large bar downstairs for casual stragglers and a more formal dining area upstairs for bookings.

- Raw beef, pear, sesame - cubes of nice chewy beef and pear with an Asian inspiration;
- Cod, foie gras, tempura, blood orange - perfectly cooked cod complemented well by tart blood orange. Couldn't detect any foie gras;
- Crab & fennel on pork skin - salty crisp pork skin was a bit too powerful to eat with the salad of crab meat, fennel, dill;
- Mussels - unfortunately small meat but cooked in a delicious orange spicy sauce of white wine and nduja (a southern Italian pork spread);
- Pork hash - pork belly, shoulder and shin, crispy fried potatoes, egg yolk. Beautiful flavour and textures in all ingredients;
- Skirt steak with kimchi hollandaise - beautifully tender medium-rare beef cutting easily, a rich spicy kimchi sauce of magic;
- Aged dripping frites with pulled pork, kimchi, cheese - not the best fries themselves, but topped nicely with pork slivers, cheese, spice;
- Keveral salad - raw greens, nothing more, nothing less;

After the feast above for 3, dessert was tempting. We only ordered the trifle, but as it was a busy night we were complemented another for the wait.

- The banana dog - squishy banner, an incredibly sweet caramel coating and some refreshing ice-cream;
- Old fashioned trifle - sweet cream topping blood orange, meringue pieces and sprinkles.

Next time I would order with my focus on the mails. For me the Pork Hash and Skirt Steak were easily the best two dishes, and the Mussel sauce equally great. I imagine the Rib for 2 would be fantastic - just like every meat dish from Pitt Cue Co.

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