Second place in a world gelato competition? That's worth a look in 33C heat isn't it?
I tried pistachio and (I think) a yoghurt one. They were fine, the flavours were nice, but there was an ice crystal or two. I wouldn't say it's the second best I've ever had. But it was alright.
After having a phone stolen at Dos Ojos cenote (sad but true), dinner was a more solemn undertaking. I still had a couple of places on the list and none higher than El Camello Jr. It's known for seafood and every single table in there seemed to have a giant plate of ceviche.
Naturally we ordered a small using shrimp, fish, octopus and snails (with tomato, onion, coriander, pepper, salt) 130 pesos. Small turned out to be not so small and easily shared between two (or potentially more) with the fried tortillas, hot sauces and limes to spice things up. it was fresh and delicious and nicely balanced.
Seafood soup (shrimp, octopus, squid, fish, crab) 140pesos was a beautiful mixed seafood stock similar to bouillabaise. It was truly delicious.
The tables next to us were loud and rowdy as a bunch of Mexicans sounded like they were being offered an investment opportunity. Who knows.
I'd go back happily for more of the same food.
After the reasonably poor choices at the taqueria in Cozumel, this one in Tulum sounded much more of a go-er. I had read that the suckling pig and black turkey was the ones to try.
It's a large space where you can sit at the counter where they dish up the tacos, or on more traditional tables. Food and service is naturally fast. You can choose a taco for 18pesos or a torta (bread roll essentially) for 38pesos.
I tried all of them. Relleno negro de pavo (marinated turkey in different smoked & roasted red chillis) was easily my favourite. Lechon al horno (suckling pig) was second, which I had in the torta as had been recommended online. Vegetarian was unusually expensive but a fresh combination. The pulled pork and poc chuc were fine too. Nothing was bad at all, including the horchata and tamarind juice in the bottles.
A cheap, fast and tasty meal.
Tulum is apparently now a gourmet capital particularly within the growing region of Cancun and the Yucatan. Reportedly the queues are long for this interesting place which is a 3-wall open kitchen with night security to ensure nothing untoward happens. We braced ourself for a potential wait outside in the July humidity and heat, armed with mosquito repellant. After a 120 peso trip there, we were pleasantly surprised to walk straight in to a table for 2 right in the middle of the action.
It's a beautiful atmosphere eating outside and eventually under the stars. The daily menus are written on boards that are carried around to tables. As the evening settles in, the staff periodically wave around hot coals with incense (I presume) to smoke away the mosquitoes (I also presume) and add some atmosphere and scent. The kitchen is open (obviously) and large flames can be seen from afar.
They are also known for cocktails (240p each) with a few mezcal offers, although I have to admit I was disappointed by these relatively expensive offerings. Mine was Ixchel (mezcal, pineapple, xtabentin - aniseed liquor, lime) but had barely had a smoke. A tequila cocktail Lechuguilla de Jackfruit (tequila blanco, jackfruit, lime) had no jackfruit flavour. Oh well. At least the food is good.
- Gambas Mayas 370p - prawns were outstanding with 4 whole and 1 little headless one underneath. They were grilled perfectly and rich in flavour with crisp edible shells. The sauce was delicious and supposedly made from peanut, pineapple and olive oil sauce (tasted like hoisin). Really spicy chilli salsa underneath;
- Ceviche Yucatan 325p - grouper with a perfect ingredient balance of salty, sweet, tangy lime and a bit of chilli;
- Filete de Pargo - Fish cooked skilfully. Soft and char. Salad quite Thai with basil
- Costillas de Agave 480p - I was tempted by fish or octopus, but ended up with a stack of pork ribs deboned. There was a lot of meat with a sweet agave coating.
- Betabel 140p - flamed beetroots were hot and soft. Skin salted and thinly crisp.
It was easily the most expensive meal we had in Mexico but also delicious, atmospheric and creative. If I had my way, there would just be less American accents around with some piercing the air...