Another trip to my favourite food destination in Spain. I ended up in Valencia mainly because I hadn't been before and the birthplace of paella lured me in. Ryanair had a nice fare returning from Alicante and so it was only natural to pass through the small town of Denia along the way.
Of course the only reason to stop in Denia itself was to visit this restaurant. I was in two minds about whether spending €135 on a set menu would be worth it, given my funds were limited and that I tended to prefer less fancy/fine and more base food. Nonetheless the recent elevation to #26 in San Pellegrino and more persuasively #1 in Opinionated About Dining ratings (putting it higher than Noma and El Celler) forced my hand. A few online reads suggested a menu experience equivalent to El Bulli. How could I resist...
After an hour bus from Valencia followed by a 30min walk from the bus station, I arrived at the restaurant in a reasonably quiet part of town to a rather unassuming building. Upon arrival you first are seated in the outdoor area for starters. They also present you with a nice little booklet with the menu, information about QD and also a notepad and pencil for you to jot notes, doodle, or whatever else you feel like. It's a nice touch in the modern foodie world of taking notes and savouring the experience.
The menu has two options - Universo Local (tradition, classic and historic) and Made in the Moon (modern Spanish cooking). Given it was my first visit, my waiter recommended sampling the Universo Local collection which brought the restaurant its reputation and fame.
1st Act: Snacks
- Gin Tonic of Apple - refreshing fizzy apple drink on a warm afternoon;
- Petals of Roses - tart edible "rose petals" of apple-strawberry flavour;
- Roots of Boletus
- Dry Leaf of Sweet Corn - a leaf flake that tastes like sweet corn...;
- Leaf of Herbs in Vinegar - tangy herb flavour I couldn't put my finger on;
- Kalanchoe Leaf with Pearls of Passion Fruit - crunchy herby tangy leaf with a slight sour passionfruit balls;
- Endive's Leaf with Muslin of Orange - shredded orange on top of herbed mayo;
- Stones of Parmesan Cheese - cold liquid of strong parmesan;
- Tomato in Vinegar - sour tangy vinegar coating a crunchy fleshy tomato;
- Tomato in Dry Vinegar - dehydrated tomato that collapsed in the mouth, with powerful tomato/thyme flavour;
- Raim del Pastor - tasted like an Asian herb algae with a slight bitterness and drying texture;
- Lichen - seaweed and little mushrooms on top of mushroom mayo, placed on a light airy crisp which had a slight burnt flavour;
2nd Act: Table of Delicatessens
- Delicatessens (Tuna, Mussel, Dry Octopus) - heavily smoked samples painted with olive oil. The mussel texture was paste-like and the tuna was more subtle smokiness;
- Paper of Cereals - crispy flake of cereal and seeds. Couldn't tell whether I liked this or not;
- Onion in Vinegar - raw pieces in balsamic vinegar;
- Fig - disolvable plastic encasing dried chewy fig powder;
3rd Act: Tapas
- Mary 2012 - take on a bloody mary, tomato disc filled tomato juice;
- Pepperwort 2012 - tuna sashimi licked with soy on a pepperwort leaf with the most lovely natural mustard/wasabi flavour;
- Dove Nest 2010 - salty cheese-like substance (spherified egg yolk I later discovered) on crispy kataifi nest;
(- Pesto) - blue cheese pesto with whole pine nuts at the bottom and parmesan paper;
(- Crepe of Strawberries) - stiff strawberry paper and castor sugar and hint of rose with fresh fruit pieces;
(- Razor Clam) - razor clam with chicken stock jelly cubes;
- Apple Tart 2012 - collapsing apple cake with alcoholic campari & orange peel ice;
- Ravioli of Beetroot & Crab 2013 - beetroot, lovely sweet crab meat and roe in a happy ravioli;
- Mediterranean Taco 2013 - strong monkfish with coriander;
- Coca of Sweet Corn - sweet sugar corn cracker, mayo that looked like grated cheese on top of dried crispy corn kernels;
4th Act: Our Table
- The Water of Dry Tomatoes 2011 - tomato pieces stirred with tomato mayo topped with creamy tomato ice, served with breadsticks;
- Cubalibre de Foie Gras with Lemon Granite and Rocket - rum & coke cubalibre with creamy rich foie gras served with a warm soft brioche bun and lemon granita;
- The Haze 2003 - jellied pea floor, salty grilled mushrooms & pork cubes, peas, crisp corn, microherbs & leaves and a misty forest aroma;
- Red King Prawns from Denia, just boiled. Tea of Chards - seawater-boiled prawns for a few seconds with the sweetest most delicately soft amazing texture, almost like being raw. Served with the most potent prawn head bisque;
- Red Mullet with Incrustation of its Guts and Eucalyptus 2011 - firm textured mullet painted with light urchin & mullet sauce with crunchy weeds and cooked on a eucalyptus leaf;
- Rice "Senia" Ashes 2008 - rice, rice dust ashes, black truffle, mushrooms and mushroom jus;
5th Act: Desserts
- Citrus Field 2005 - orange & sugar dust, mandarin peel and slices, orange cream and a sponge-looking thing that may have been bread?,
- Milk 2009 - milk crisp, vanilla pod icecream and another sponge-looking thing that may have been bread pudding?,
6th Act: The Magic Box
- Crocante of Almonds, Trufle of Rum, Gold Stones - gold chocolate with crunchy wafer interior, rum truffles and almond milk chocolate.
A very extensive dining experience which was helped by the addition of a few complemtary tapas from the Modern menu. I'm not sure what El Bulli was like, but if this is anything to draw by then the experience and excitement is what it is all about. There are stand-out dishes that work purely on flavour (although not many) and the best prawns that I will never find cooked the same way anywhere in the world. But it's more about the collection of dishes, the progression of the meal and the knowledge you won't find this cooking anywhere else in the world.
I'd consider going one more time (if in the area) for the Made in the Moon menu, but couldn't see myself going back again and again. That's probably a reflection of my changing food preferences rather than anything else. It's an experience worth having nonetheless.
Spain still has my food heart.