For breakfast overlooking Taksim square...
You'd think that given the popularity of doner kebabs at 3am all over the world that Istanbul would have the same drunk food. And yes there certainly is, but the reputation is overshadowed by the islak burger. It is at it appeared in the photos - a soggy humidified burger with a salty patty.
I had the pleasure of trying one sober (opportunistic) and can happily say I don't need to have it again.
It may seem like a much better idea when completed wasted though...
Back in the days before the ease of internet restaurant reviews (let alone in English) it was a much harder effort finding places. Due to a combination of my Rough Guide to Europe and the casual wandering around Taksim for a couple of days, I ended up at Zubeyir in search of a good grilled meal.
The seating in front of the charcoal meats is the perfect location of watching the choices go from raw to smoke to yours.
Delicious.
There's a few reasons to go to the Asia side of Istanbul - to view Sultanahmet from the ferry, to wander through the food markets, to get away from the hordes of tourists, and lastly to eat at Ciya.
Before the easily accessible days of tourist Google maps, I didn't know where Ciya actually was within the Asia side. After asking in a bakery and confusing them with my mispronunciation, we eventually worked it out (it's pronounced "chi-ya") down the road. I didn't realise there are actually two branches of this and there wasn't any information online back then on the difference. Apparently the full restaurant is better than the kebab one (as I recently read in 2017), but I'm sure both are ok.
These days there's still no more famous restaurant in Istanbul, at least on the Asia side, but there's plenty more reviews available and choices.
I'll make a more dedicated effort to be back there when I return to Istanbul one day...
I struggled to find lokum (aka Turkish delight) in Kadikoy. You wouldn't believe it but it's true. Leaving the hotel I asked the reception and luckily he knew a place enroute. It was easy to find along the main street downwards and I suppose I hadn't previously ventured along that road all the way down to the ferry area.
There were many choices of lokum in all different flavours.
I'd tried many since coming home and each have that perfect lokum gummy texture. I have to admit the flavours generally aren't my style and so I think I'm happy sticking to baklava when it comes to Turkish takeaway desserts now.
But everyone is different!
On the morning before taking the ferry from Kadikoy to the airport, I made a dedicated hunt to find baklava. Luckily this slightly obscure place located semi-behind another cafe was found and the pistachio everything came into view.
I ordered a few different things, all variations on a theme - the dark green roll with a shiny covering, the soft green middle with pastry sides and the logroll pastry cylinder with nuts in the middle. I think my favourite was either of the first two as they had the most pistachio and syrup taste to really make the treat worthwhile. The finer nuts make a nicer texture than the harder full ones in the cylinder.
They aren't expensive. Try them all!
Pistachios and sugar are combined to form these wonderful pastry offerings.
I couldn't decide what I wanted so ended up with the slice of pie looking one. The pistachios are crunchy and the pastry is dense kataifi and not as sweet as it looks.
It wasn't as glorious as I'd hoped but a good snack after wandering around the Blue Mosque.
Unfortunately my fading memory and the space of time means that I forgot to attach my thoughts with these photos when I uploaded them.
Basta! is a modern take on the ever present (in the world) durum/doner kebabs. The way Jimmy Grants (http://eatlikeushi.posthaven.com/jimmy-grants-melbourne-01-2014) transformed and modernised (even though the recipe is more traditional) souvlaki in Melbourne, Basta! has done the same in Istanbul. The chefs have Michelin-star experience and therefore bring the quality and prices along.
There isn't a lot of seating inside and there isn't any English translation of the menu. The staff try (with some difficulty) to explain what some of the items are, but in the end you'll probably be safe picking any of the durum. It was a mid-afternoon snack between lunch and dinner - perfect for the smaller size (but better in quality!). The hummus is a specialty of the venue also and if I had more stomach space or hadn't chosen the Sucuk durum, I would have ordered one of those too.
- Sucuk (homemade lamb chorizo, hummus) YTL21;
- Dana (smoked rib, pickle, mustard) YTL21.
Both were delicious with the quality of the grilled meats and sauces potently coming through. Even though I liked the thicker chunks of smoked rib meat, I was surprised to prefer the lamb chorizo. Maybe it was the spiciness or the hummus - either way I'd be keen to stop there if I ever find myself in Istanbul again.
The Asian side of Turkey has a few coffee shops in close succession to get the mornings started. I don't drink coffee but the smell comes from the pure black offerings there which are strong and bitter. We did ask for a little milk just to temper it and I hope the hipster barista didn't get upset.
On the other hand I enjoyed trying salep, a warm drink made from orchid root, milk and cinnamon. It's similar to a horchata I suppose but probably closer to drinking a rice dessert (without the rice). It's quite thick and very sweet. Full of energy for the day ahead.