Eat Like Ushi

The Vodnikov trg market square of Ljubljana has recently acquired a collection of food vans, with the two or three most fragrant specialising in fried seafood. As tempting as these were, Valentin caught my attention first for a few reasons - their outdoor seating overlooking the market square on a sunny blue-skied day, the wafting smells from other people's plates and the fresh seafood displayed from their fishmonger front.

I wanted variety. The 400g of Deep-Fried Mixed Seafood €10 (squid, sardines, hake, whitebait, whiting, octopus) seemed the right choice, even if they did suggest it would be for two.

The seafood is good quality, fresh and cooked to perfection with great flavour. The best by far was the whiting, the largest fish on the plate with juicy flesh and crispy salty fried coating. Whole octopus tentacles had been lightly pan-fried to a tasty red skin and a great smooth chew. Tiny deep-fried squid presented chewy mouthfuls each. Calamari rings and smaller fish were also to a good standard but paled in comparison to the rest.

Next time I would order the same Deep-Fried Mixed Seafood plate. Even though the whiting and octopus were best on the plate, the variety is welcome and much better value. Follow it up with some nice fruit from the market to wash down the salt. On a colder day, the inside restaurant provides more formal dish options in a protected environment.

I actually wanted to eat at Pomf (especially the deer & wild boar goulash) but for some reason they didn't have any stews that day (for lunch or dinner). I found that quite odd given it wasn't all that warm - perhaps the game were all in hibernation and couldn't be found. Nonetheless I swallowed my incredulity and continued to enjoy the amazing sunset sky while looking for somewhere else.

Located along a major walkway in Ljubljana and listed in multiple guidebooks means I wouldn't normally eat at a place like Sokol, but the reputation for quality goulash and a traditional house setting meant a last minute meal before a late train.

Divjacinski Gol €9.9 (Venison Goulash with Bread Dumplings, Pear & Cranberry) was thick, meaty, flavoursome. Bread dumpling was an odd dense slab of carbohydrate, but useful to soak up the goulash. Sweet cranberries and pear made this version particularly different and memorable to the previous ones I've tried. My stomach was happily warm.

Mesana solata (seasonal salad) €3.5 was a surprisingly nice collection of lettuce, cabbage and beans with a slightly tart vinegar dressing. It was a good break from the heavy stew flavour.

Next time I would order the Venison Goulash again for something reliable and warming. Other house specialties such as Deer Mediallions or Stag Steak sounds like fantastic alternatives.