Eat Like Ushi

The late morning bus to Kotor meant there was time for a nice sit down breakfast. There's a few bakeries around although none looked particularly good for a sit down meal.

Or'O has a nice looking dinner menu and a lovely outdoor space to enjoy the sun and watch people.

- Village Breakfast (2 eggs, beef prosciutto, beef sausage, kajmak, homemade ajvar) €4.7 - tremendously overcooked eggs but the meat was nice
- Homemade cheese pie 350g €4.3 - this was recommended over the buckwheat pie. The cheese flavour was minimal. It was basically twisty pastry. I was expecting a pie (ie. pastry outside with a filling) but sadly not.

3 different breads were given to eat with the breakfast but they charged €0.9.

Not a fantastic breakfast and would try somewhere else (not sure where exactly...) or get a takeaway bakery breakfast next time.

After 6 days of wilderness, rehydrated food and the occasional luxury of carrying around a fresh vegetable (not including Guesthouse Nedajno's meals of course), we finally ended our hike in Zabljak. After securing a last minute random room somewhere, the booking agency recommended Luna as somewhere with traditional Montenegrin food and also very closeby.

It was a very busy dining area. The first person we saw said no space and walked off. The second (a few seconds later) said wait and he will check. The third soon after sat us at a nice empty 4 seater booth that had just been vacated.

The menu had delicious sounding items, and my hiking stomach wanted to try them all. Njeguski steak seemed to be popular with it being a large rolled chicken schnitzel. As tempted as I was, I was craving lamb since seeing it cooked at Trnovacko Lake several days earlier.

We ordered about 300-400g of the roast lamb (€20/kg). There was a lot of bone, but the meat was very tasty and simply seasoned, and the flavour drifted into the potato underneath. Grilled vegetables including excellent zucchini and mushroom followed. We also tried the specialty mountain dish kacamak (corn porridge) for €4.5. It was 300g of polenta with rich cheese and butter through it. Very nice but so heavy to finish between two.

Finally a pancake with chocolate ended the meal. Thick soft with some crisp. With that, we waddled back for a much needed sleep.

Very cheap meal and would happily go back for more lamb or try the Njeguski.

The hike from Piva dam directly upwards over the pass was meant to take about 1.5-2h. 4h later after going back and forth and back and forth, falling and nettled, we turned back and licked our wounds. It turns out there are old markings on the trail of a red circle and they removed the white centre, rather than removing the whole lot. We got this mixed up with the normal red circle with white middle. Not the most helpful.

The guard at the dam took solace. After he had initially filled our water bottles before the climb, I offered him some dried figs which he accepted. Maybe that's why he took pity on us and eventually offered to drive us to Nedajno for €50. It was worth the saving of our souls and we ended up at this guesthouse.

Usually there are 2 daughters who speak English. However they were studying for exams and so it was more difficult to decipher.

Camp or cabin? Cabin comes with a bathroom and hot shower. Cabin it is. Dinner? Definitely.

After freshening up, we sat and were served our meals.

- Soup with some meat, maybe lamb;
- Fish with crisp skin on both sides. Reasonable soft flesh;
- Cevapi had more grainy texture and thicker than those in Sarajevo. The potatoes had incredible flavour. But neither the cevapi nor potatoes had any crisp bits;
- Free fresh salad.

€13 was for the whole meal. If I was ever there again (unlikely) I would ask for lamb.

Breakfast was ustipci fried doughnuts (similar to Chinese donuts in a different shape) with pine honey and jam and two different types of cheese (one sheep and one milder).