Eat Like Ushi

 

On my final evening in Bled, I wandered around the entire town looking for dinner. Given Restaurant Vila had closed down (TA #1) and the other restaurant with a great name (Ostaria Peglez'n) seemed to have an all pasta menu, I ended up reading menus to find something that interested me.

There were two options - the first was Mlino (menu looks decent, but later reading reviews aren't that favourable) and I would go back to try, and would have on this night if I wouldn't have had to backtrack away from town to go there.

Panoroma refers to the ideal location overlooking Lake Bled. During lunch or a warm evening this would be perfect. On this evening it was quite chilly and so sitting outside wasn't a reasonable option. It is a shame that none of the indoor seating really allows you to enjoy the location, especially so in the dark of the night.

Given the touristy location and name, I was pleasantly surprised the food (or at least the main) exceeded that expectation.

Mushroom Soup in a Bread Bowl €4.5 seems to be a dish the majority of Slovenian restaurants have on the menu. I'm unsure what the historical link of this is. The soup had decent mushroom flavour in a thin broth. The bread bowl was more bowl than bread - solidly baked and crunchy until inedible. I wonder if the waitress was surprised I tried.

I requested a fish main from that caught locally in Lake Bled. I ended up with Trout Fillet with Corn Crust, Potatoes & Roast Almonds €11.5. This dish surprised me with its quality. The trout was perfectly cooked, none of the dry fish flesh that makes me so fearful to order a fish fillet main in any restaurant. The corn crust was fried in butter, a rich delicious flavour. Simple boiled potatoes and crunchy almond flakes added nice balance and texture variety. Fantastic.

The quality of the trout tempted me into dessert. I tried another specialty layered cake Gibanica €3.9, this time with pastry, apple, chocolate and a very mild cheese. I've never been one for cheese in desserts and this didn't change that preference.

Next time I would order the Trout Fillet with Corn Crust. One of the best cooked and simply flavoured fish dishes I've ever received. I'd try the Goulash Soup just in the hope it was good. There are other seafood mains (not from Lake Bled) that also sound promising. Otherwise try Ostaria Peglez'n - it has all the markings of a place that would be good (if you are in the mood for pasta).

I'm still unsure as to the actual name of this restaurant. The hotel it is attached to is called Penzion Riznik. The higher grade hotel it is related to down the road is Hotel Malovec. Tripadvisor lists this place as Gostilna s prenocisci Malovec. So be it.

Divaca is a tiny town in Slovenia for which the only reason to visit is enroute to the Skocjan caves. Scenic walking requires sustenance so it was pleasing to note that in this town containing only one gostilna, it was a very good one.

A specialty of Slovenia I was yet to try was horse steak. I have eaten small pieces of horse meat before in Japan and Australia but this was an opportunity to try an entire slab. All Slovenian restaurants seem to also offer Beef Soup with Noodles. I'm not sure what makes this such a local dish but thought my final meal in the country should cover all these missed bases.

The Beef Soup with Noodles €2.5 was quite simply as described, a relatively weak beef flavoured clear broth with essentially instant noodles. I wouldn't get it again.

Horse Beefsteak €15 was a medium-rare cut of eye fillet. An great quality piece of meat with the soft tenderness of the leanest beef equivalent. A little marbling may have made it even better but neither fillets nor horses are known for fat. If you haven't tried it before, horse has quite possibly the strongest game flavour of any meat I've tried. Be prepared to dampen it with mustard.

Finally to finish off I succumbed to an Apple Strudel €2.5. I am a fan of any apple dessert and have tried them all over the world; this was clearly the best I've ever had in the world. Crisp flaky pastry topped with icing sugar housed the greatest apple filling of slightly crunchy fruit strips with a moist core. Beautiful texture and flavour. I was so happy.

Next time I would order the Apple Strudel. I could have eaten a buffet for hours and would still have space for this. If "game" enough, Horse Steak will be memorable. If you ethically object, Squid dishes ordered by other people looked and smelt delicious and large enough to make you happy.

 

The central lake of Bled means that areas away from this are more frequented by locals. Smon is just up the road from the main city bus stop making it great for food or takeaway snacks while walking to or from the gorge or waiting for a bus. It is a combination of a bakery and sweet shop specialising in the local Slovenian cake (most specialised in Bled) called Kremna Rezina. I was lucky enough to sample many delicacies from here, eating them in the shop, on the bus and out enjoying the scenery.

Pizza Cetrtinka €2 (ham, cheese, tomatoes, mushrooms, oregano) had a thick tasty crust, topped with rich ingredients. Burek Sirov €2.5 (dough, salty cottage cheese) was an enormous roll of soft pasty wrapping a dry crumbly cheese. Too much for one, but another good option on the move.

Kremna Rezina is a layered sweet of vanilla cream, fresh cream and puff pastry. Under the flaky top lies an unexpected textures of light whipped cream, an airy layer of sugary vanilla custard mousse with a taste of meringue base. Not particularly my taste but definitely something for dessert fans.

To complete my cravings, I had a takeaway Cherry Slice that was decliously sour and enjoyed watching the waterfall at the Vintgar Gorge.

Next time I would order burek or pizza for lunch on the run and any number of sweets for a late goodnight.

 Finding "Slovenian" food in Bled is quite difficult. Due to geographical proximity, much of the reputed restaurants are actually heavily Italian pizza and pasta based. A Gostilna is a traditional home, akin to a Western pub. Local food is what people come here for, hearty and simple generous servings to fill empty stomachs.

Planincu has two eating areas, an informal bar decorated with a colourful array of license plates and a more defined restaurant area. Naturally I chose the bar which happened to be while a live Barcelona vs. Real Madrid match was showing. The atmosphere was more relaxed, the bargirl was gorgeous, and the only other patrons were locals having a drink and enjoying the football.

But food is always my focus.

Goulash Soup (juha golazeva) €3.9 was a little disappointing as it was slightly watery. Some salt enhanced the meaty flavour better making it an adequate entree. Perhaps I'm used to thicker versions.

Pork Scallop Ljubljana-Style (svinjski po Ljubljansko) €9.9 actually turned out to be a pork schnitzel with one side of the pork layered with ham and cheese. The schnitzel was great, crispy coating, juicy pork and a good lemon squeeze or the light cheese and ham added a different taste when one gets too repetitive.

Next time I would order the Pork Scallop aka Wienerschnitzel quite happily. But there are many other simple-sounding options including some that make use of the fish from Lake Bled.

Dishoom has been long on my London breakfast list. I'd been particularly slack with this as most times I have mornings off, I much prefer lying in bed and blessing that I'm not required to get up. However on this occasion shopping around Covent Garden loomed and thus nearby Dishoom seemed like its time had come. The cafe has an elegant seating area upstairs with dedications to (assumably Indian) actors. The open kitchen behind includes a fire grill and tandoor from which meat scents entice you.

Unfortunately (or not?) I arrived too late to sample the much anticipated breakfast naan, but at least the House Chai was still flowing. Delicious, thin, milky with nice ginger richness. This is the first chai I've had in an Indian cafe and sets the standard very high. It is also only the second acceptable chai I've had in London (after Bea's of Bloomsbury near St. Paul's Cathedral)

After careful perusal of the menu I selected the Chicken & Pomegranate Salad (juicy jumble of pulled Murgh Malai spiced chicken thighs, Dishoom Slaw, pomegranate, mint & coriander) and a waitress-recommended Dishoom Chicken Tikka Roll (rosy warm chicken, lavish salad & tomato chilli jam).

Firstly to the Salad - absolutely spectacular. One of the best dishes I've eaten this year, with a playful collection of sweet, sour, mint flavours and soft, crunchy textures. The only equivalent salad I've ever eaten would be Hellenic Republic's Cypriot Grain Salad (in Melbourne) or an exceptional Vietnamese goi.

The Tikka Roll was a contrasting warm roti roll encasing tandoor-cooked chicken and crisp salad. Tomato chilli jam added additional kick and flavour, and I felt the roll worked even better with the Mint & Coriander sauce provided separately at the start.

I left a happy boy.

Next time I would order the Chicken & Pomegranate Salad at any time of day or night. There are many combinations of meats, roti and naan that I'm sure will taste fantastic. I will be back for breakfast and also for dinner.

2013

In late 2012, Dishoom opened a second branch in the hip happening region of Shoreditch. Unlike the Covent Garden branch, this seemed a much cooler venue with an open drinking area at the front behind some metal gates, an excellent bar which served as the table waiting area, and two main areas for dining including long tables, couple tables and retro booths.

I had the pleasure of finally making it for breakfast on a couple of occasions, most notably after Hawthorn won the 2013 Grand Final.

- House Granola (oats, seeds, cashews, almonds, pistachios, and much cinnamon, toasted in butter and honey. Served with fresh fruits and creamy yoghurt infused with Keralan vanilla pods) - healthy and delicious;
- Infamous Bacon Naan Roll (baked naan wrapped around char-striped back bacon direct from the grill, with a most palatable combination of chilli tomato jam, cream cheese and herbs) - a simple tasty combination of flavours, although I felt the dish was a bit flat (physically) and although nice wasn't worth hyping over;
- Bollybellini (raspberries, lychees, rose and cardamom sparkling with first-class Prosecco).

I was also lucky enough to have a 3 nights of dinner and drinks during the year and try a large collection of dishes.

- Spicy Lamb Chops (marinade of lime juice & jaggery, warm dark spices, ginger & garlic. Charred outside, pink inside) - these are impeccably cooked and wonderfully tasty. A lighter flavour than the Tayyabs/Needoo chops, but much better quality meat and cooking;
- Murgh Malai (chicken thigh meat is steeped overnight in garlic, ginger, coriander stems and a little cream. Still slightly pink when cooked);
- Kacchi Lamb Biryani (marinated lamb and rice cooked together in the traditional Hyderabadi style);
- Chaijito (smoky rum and Dishoom sweet-spice chai syrup muddled with fresh mint, coriander, ginger & lime).

All the food and drinks are great. The atmosphere is great. The location is great. Just go there.

The wonderful Grand Canyon is a natural wonder to behold. The vast textures conceal a barren emptiness that can only be described as beautiful. Even more enchanting is the variety of colour changes that bleed onto the scenery during sunset and sunrise. Of course a logical way to enjoy both of these means a solid meal in between. There are restaurants along the rim itself with some tables overlooking the rim, although I've read that once the sunsets you can't see anything worth enjoying - and I prefer to have my sunset out in the open (weather permitting)

El Tovar is the lead hotel set in a lovely pine building and is also most gourmet of the South Rim restaurants. As it was the same night as a 30th birthday, I had made a particular booking here to ensure we ate well that evening. As our requested table overlooking the rim (if you're going to book it anyway, minimal rim view is better than none) had been donated elsewhere, we were given the private dining room adorned with engraved wooden walls, high candles, and a sense of native American homeliness.

- El Tovar Black Bean Soup served in a Tortilla Bowl with Sour Cream - I liked this heavy Mexican-style soup, although not so much my friends;
- Wild Alaskan Salmon Tostada on Organic Greens (served with tequila vinaigrette, corn salsa, lime sour cream & roasted pistachio garden rice)
- Garden Penne in a Roasted Tomato Sauce (spinach, garbanzo beans, asparagus, tomatoes, mushrooms, artichoke hearts) - very simple and satisfying. Nothing particularly unusual or memorable.
- Rainbow Trout Amandine (served with rice pilaf & seasonal vegetables)
- Apple Strudel
- "Happy Birthday" Creme Brûlée
- 3rd dessert I can't quite remember... 

Honestly after a 20-hour day including 2 flights and 8 hours of driving, I don't recall much of the meal specifics. It isn't cheap and I don't think memorable enough (for me to remember it well or) to insist on eating here, but if you are in the mood for gourmet food (which happens to be in a cabin that includes tables overlooking the South Rim), then this is the only option. It isn't bad by any means, but I'd only come here again under those specific conditions.

Next time I would order whatever the seasonal menu has that sounds local. Particular items have the words "El Tovar" that suggests they would be worthy. Additionally some of the mains have unusual sounding sauces that pique interest such as bourbon chipotle cream, fig puree or cherry merlot sauce.

Driving along the historic Route 66 from The Grand Canyon to Las Vegas is a hungry journey. The epic road trip across the USA is a lovely experience of friendships and changing sceneries. Of course food is as necessary as ever, and in all my reading only one place came up as a must-visit.

Delgadillo's Snow Cap in the little town of Seligman is somewhat of an institution along the Route. I wouldn't necessarily say it is worth the 1.5hrs from The Grand Canyon nor the 3hrs from Vegas just for this, but if you are passing through then it will make your trip a happier one.

Setup in a mock petrol station, vehicles from the Cars movie line the back, an old jalopy sits in front, and the inside is decorated with a dizzying amount of memorabilia, business cards, stickers, number plates and just general crap.

Food options are limited to the wholesome and satisfying - burgers, hot dogs, fries, onion rings, burritos, tacos, shakes etc. Oink Cheeseburger, Chicken Taco, Sweet Potato Fries and Onion Rings all hit their intended mark without being spectacular, but certainly satisfying in an entertaining environment.

Seligman isn't that far away from The Grand Canyon, so ensure to leave adequate time from your last meal to maximise hunger.

Next time I would order any unhealthy concoction of food that celebrates the freedom of being on an American road trip along Route 66.

Considering Longrain in Melbourne serves my favourite dishes in the world, and the head chef Martin Boetz was taught by David Thompson, it is no surprise nahm has been on my list for a long while. nahm has been one of the only Thai cuisine restaurants in the world to have a Michelin star and I have David Thompson's two famed Thai cookbooks on my shelves too. People have commented that since he opened the Bangkok branch and bases himself there, the London branch has suffered and since lost its Michelin star whilst the Bangkok has breached the San Pellegrino Top 50 list in the world.

Nonetheless despite a reduced reputation, you can't reverse years of curiosity from my belly. Given there were 4 of us, we skipped the tasting menu in favour of ordering more variety of a la carte dishes.

- Salad of Langoustines (with young ginger & lychees)
- Spicy Minced Pork Salad (with crunchy rice & betel leaves)
- Dtom Yam Hoi (hot & sour soup with mussels, turmeric & coriander)
- Smoky Kingfish Relish (with toasted coconut & chillies served with five-spice eggs, pickled greens, starfruit & green beans)
- Stir-fried Eel (with pork, curry paste, wild ginger & chillies)
- Jungle Curry of Venison (with long leaf coriander & deep fried shallots)
- Double-Steamed Rabbit (with pickled mustard greens)
- Stir-fried Tofu (with corn peppers, samphire, spring onions & corn)
- Gola Cuttlefish Salad

- Mango Sticky Pudding
- Sesame Seed & Coconut Dumplings (with pickled ginger agar agar)
- Coconut & Taro Pudding (with ancestor biscuits filled with young coconut)

All of the dishes were at least good. The Salad of Langoustines and Spicy Minced Pork Salad were great - I always enjoy South-East Asian salads for the amazing combination of herbs and spices and textures especially when reinvented by modern Thai chefs. The Tom Yum soup was a must try for me as I've tried to make the impossibly complicated David Thompson's version in Thai Street Food cookbook. The true form is deliciously deep (although not overly strong) with flavour and a kick of chilli - unlike any version I've tried before.

I will say that I did expect some stronger flavour from some of the dishes that I'm used to from Longrain. On that front I was a little disappointed, but different people have different tastes.

If you have access to Bangkok, I'd suggest trying that one instead given the modern trends. Otherwise the old faithful London branch is certainly acceptable.

Next time I would order any combination of the salads and the unique Dtom Yam Hoi which you won't have a similar taste to anywhere. The other dishes are all good and so picking something where the ingredients appeal to you won't be difficult.

Fish is abundant along the northern coast of Poland and so it makes sense to try a well reputed restaurant built from the original Gdansk fishmarket. Targ Rybny (restaurant name the same as the road it is located upon) is a well-reputed seafood place and has made itself to #2 on Tripadvisor for Gdansk. The staff did inform me that Poland has no local shellfish, whether that affects your dish selections or not.

The setting is nicely located near the riverside so sitting outside on a sunny day is a perfect idea.

For variety I selected the Tapas Plate with specialties of Fishmarkt. Although clearly designed to be shared between a few, I had it all to myself. Two steamed clams topped with cheese & diced tomato, a crispy pancake from potato & zucchini with wheat seeds topped with caviar, smoked salmon, smoked herring, smoked cod and a smoked salmon mayonnaise mix. In the end a little too much smoked flavour for my liking; I was hoping for a bit more fresh ingredients.

Despite not being local, I tried the Refined Lobster-Cream Soup with Lobster Dumpling served with a nice G (or am I seeing imaginary things in my soup?). The flavour was rich to match the orange brilliance. Thick luscious and lovely with the lobster essence seemingly stronger the deeper I went into the bowl.

I asked them to recommend me a local fish for my main and so ended up with Cod Fillet Baked (with dried tomatoes & mozzarella, served on spinach with lemon sauce). I have to admit I wasn't particularly taken with the dish. The fish quality was a bit tough and reminded me why I extremely rarely order fish dishes as a main course at any restaurant.

Prices are expensive for Poland but with most main courses costing $12-15 (with the odd one being $18 or $30) it really isn't that much in the scheme of world restaurant life.

Next time I would order the Lobster Soup again. Bouillabaise could be promising too. The Tapas Plate I'd only consider if there were a group to share it with all whom liked smoked items. I'm not sure which main to choose - one was served in a fry pan which looked ok.

"Milk bars" in Poland have nothing to do with milk and everything to do with homestyle cooking. This is a well reputed one especially for their version of soup.

It is in an unexpectedly good location, just east of the old town square. Yet despite this and the reputation, I was pleasantly surprised to find that the bar was full of Polish people. People come either alone for a quick meal or in small groups of 2-4 for a social catchup over food. Not a hint of English was detected until I opened my mouth to order.

I had read the Zurek sour rye soup was the main thing to try here and so how could I resist. For my first time, it was a pleasant experience - a tangy zesty light sourness flavoured with smoked sausage.

I asked for a recommendation for a main dish and so ended up with Barbeque Ribs (with Cooked Potatoes, Pickles). Thinking about it after ordering it doesn't sound particularly local at all, so I wasn't impressed with my decision making. The ribs were tasty, but a little tough such that the meat didn't melt off the bone as we all expect ribs to. I liked having the mash, shredded carrot and strong pickles to give make each mouthful different.

I would be very happy to return here.

Next time I would order the Zurek or try their take on Barszcz. I'd try a main meal that is more decidely Polish - I'm not exactly sure which that is, but Goulash or Bread-Crumbed Pork Chop sound like a great start.