Visiting the Longshen rice terraces from Guilin was a highlight. Even though the misty weather prevented easy visualisation of the layered fields, it had a more enchanting feel walking up the pathways to the villages.
Rice cooked in bamboo over fire was the traditional dish of the day.
I'm resigned to the fact that I'll never rediscover where some of these places I ate in China are, simply because they have no English names and I would only know if I retraced my steps (not impossible given my Lonely Planet China that I relied upon).
After crossing a very rickety bridge in Guilin to look for a breakfast, and being confused by an elderly man not happy about my presence (and no such eatery to be found), I went back to the town and wandered through an indoor passageway that happened to include a noodle place. This was my first encounter with Guilin mifen and sadly it has been my last too.
The noodles were assembled by a lady adding bits and pieces including soy beans, pork and some kind of broth and the result was a very savoury tasty noodle dish with a tiny bit of soup served in a simple metal bowl.
I haven't found any recipes for mifen online (in English at least) since searching periodically in 2010, including Chinese cookbooks that I've come across. Although it seems there may be a few starting to surface online now...
Using the Lonely Planet, there was one place in Guilin I really wanted to try. The book even warned me about the rickety bridge required to get there but my sense of adventure gave me the strength to cross (and take photos).
Once there it seemed apparent the restaurant was closed or finished or just not to be found. I struggled to find out where it was or what happened and in the end an elderly man shooed. Oh well, you can't win them all.
Back in town I walked past many young people eating breakfast noodles out of small takeaway containers. I mustered up the courage to ask a young male what it was, and he said "mifen" and directed me inside the corridor of a building. I came across a small noodle cafe. After watching them compile noodles in a silver bowel for other customers, I ordered one of the same. They compiled it for me and topped it with some kind of (likely MSG-happy) liquid for flavour.
The dish was delicious. Umami and textural with different ingredients.
I've since tried to find a recipe for it online with no luck. I've come across a restaurant in the USA that supposedly sells it and some kind of strange video of a guy stealing a menu from a mifen shop in China. I hope to one day eat this again.
