Eat Like Ushi

I was really surprised to find a tiny falafel joint is the TA #1 in Ohrid. Considering the lake and therefore seafood, as well as the town is probably visited by less budget-conscious tourists made it unusual. Even still the restaurants aren't that expensive, so why is this takeaway place so high?

A lady and her child sat inside waiting for the diners to come - it was a bit early at 5.45pm. But for 170 den, a serve of hummus & falafel (bread 100g, falafel 6x 15g, tahini 15g, salad, chickpeas 100g) was served. The 4 of us shared 2 of these and ordered another 10 falafels to share.

They were good cheap small falafels, a bit salty alone but good with the salad and bread. The tahini was excellent and thick. Salads are quite simple but pickled cucumber is nice. However the bread is served cold and not very soft, which is the only let down.

It's a good change from typical Balkan food and the price is great, although I'd had much better at Pilpel in London and also a random place in Amman. Not essential to try.

January was a beautiful time to be in Ohrid - cool temperatures however we were blessed with sunshine and perfect weather to wander around the cobblestoned town. After watching a marvellous sunset from the Church of Saints Clement & Pantelemon, it was time to settle for dinner. Unfortunately a lot of restaurants are closed during this quiet period, including Kaj Kanevce which was the one I wanted to try most in Ohrid. Next to it is Kaneo, which I had also read a lot about, however the prices are significantly higher and our host didn't rate it. Since it was a bit late and we were feeling a little lazy, we ended up at this restaurant right outside Saint Sophia church.

It had been recommended by our host and additionally the place was actually quite busy, much more than any other restaurant we had walked past.

A good local wine was served by the glass at 180 den for 0.2L. Bargain.

- Eggplant with seeds & mayonnaise;
- Eel in a pan 660 den for 300g - baked and served in a claydish with soft thick cuts and charred flesh. Excellent;
- Fried carp 420 den for 300g - like a soft schnitzel with simple flavour and ok firm flesh. Simple garnishes. It must be price per kg for the plate (as it can't be 300g fish);
- Ohrid cake - burnt hard caramel with walnuts, soft cake, chocolate coat.

A good meal and I did enjoy the eel from Ohrid Lake. It does remind me of the Butrint Lake eel I enjoyed in Albania not so long ago (https://eatlikeushi.posthaven.com/the-mussel-house-ksamil-09-2019).

After plenty of Balkans cuisine it was time to have something a little different. Ohrid has a lot of pizza places for whatever reason and everyone from our transfer driver (Cosa Nostra) to our apartment host (Via Sacra) to a lady on the street (Leonardo) had their recommendation.

We tried Via Sacra first but unfortunately they were closed (well it looked open but the door wouldn't) and so wandered down the cobbled streets to Leonardo.

- Lasagna boloneze (meat sauce, pasta) 250 den - strong crusty cheese, meat sauce, and soft sheets served in an oven dish. Really excellent and would make Garfield proud;
- Pizza Leonardo (tomato sauce, yellow cheese, ham, mushrooms, hot sausage, sour cream, olives, hot peppers) 290 den - a little unusual in that the crust had sesame seeds. The ingredients were ok and as expected. Passata was served additionally which seemed a bit odd;
- Macedonian salad (roasted peppers, tomato, onion) 120 den - fine.

A standard pizza and salad held up by an excellent lasagna. I would come back here for the lasagna alone, but otherwise would try a different pizzeria next time.

After the morning seeing the Bay of Bones museum and then the peacocks at St. Naum Monastery, it was time for lunch and enjoying the winter sun. I had Ribar on my list, but our driver called and said they were closed. There was also Rritja e Koranit found from Google maps, but it was on the other side of St. Naum to our return to Ohrid.

Our driver took us here. The hotel part and the higher end decor inside did make me wonder. He did choose the place as it had a terrace across the lake, which meant braving the smoking section. But as the sun gleamed through, it was worth the compromise.

Ohrid bread came out first which was a crispy pretzel with sesame seeds. Really nice and went well with the trout soup.

- Trout soup (trout, carrot, lemon, flour, spices, pepper, oil, salt, parsley) 160 den - thick and delicious with chunks of fish flesh and flavoured with the vegetables and butter. Really really good;
- Ohrid trout style (trout, peppers, tomato, onion, oil, salt, paprika, lemon, potatoes, broccoli, parsley) 1580 den/kg - trout came served whole but already despined. It was expertly grilled until the flesh was firm but not overcooked and not burnt at all. It had good flavour cooked with onion and yellow peppers inside until those additives were sweet. I can't remember how much we ordered, but I think about 500g (of the dish, not the fish alone);
- Fried belvica (belvica, salt, oil, potatoes, lemon, broccoli, tomato, flour) 1900 den/kg - fish seasoned and fried to a crisp skin. Flesh was very soft although not much flavour in itself. Again, not entirely sure how much we ordered but I think about 500g was the 4 fish and sides;
- Salad for 4.

It was a nice lunch even if the terrace sunshine meant smokers were near us. The food was good though and fish very well cooked.

Our driver did say that food was much cheaper on the Albania side of Lake Ohrid and often they are hired for a full day tour of the lake and so have lunch after crossing over. Trout fishing on the Macedonia side is regulated and hence the availability is less and the price higher. In Albania, it is lawless (so he said).