Eat Like Ushi

There are two arrocerias (that I could find) in Oviedo. One is called La Genuina de Cimadevilla. I was keen to go to this place. For some reason, my travel friend decided to go to the other one. Calling yourself "the cheapest rice restaurant" is not generally conducive to being a quality restaurant, but you can only try...

After finding the place, it was a surprisingly nice venue. It was also filled with Spanish groups and families all enjoying their rice dishes.

They specialise in different types of rice dishes - banda is dry, melosos is wet and caldosos are soups. That's essentially the explanation from the waiter. Each dish also needs to have a minimum of 2 servings (I didn't see that written on the menu).

After some nice bread, the Clasico (gamba, calamar y mejillon) €21.4 for 2 came out. It was a very heavily flavoured rice, cooked a little under al dente (but I don't mind that crunchiness) with small smalls, squid and mussles inserted. Even though the pan was extremely hot, the waiter mixed it up immediately so there was no burnt crust at the bottom, which was a shame.

I also tried the De La Abuela with chicken, sausage, peas and red peppers. It was a much less flavoured, more simplistic paella, and good in its own way.

It isn't my favourite paella, but it's reasonable and the price isn't too dear. Interestingly Genuina is probably only a little more expensive, so I'd be keen to try that one instead next time.

One of the most famous sidrerias in Asturias is a small chain of places called Tierra Astur. There's two along Calle Gascona (one at the top with an attached small shop, and one in the middle) and also one I saw from outside near the beach in Gijon. There may be others also but these are the ones people are most likely to come across.

Even being a small chain, it does have a reputation for being good. And I must admit it is probably an essential experience in Oviedo. I went to the one in the middle of Calle Gascona, a pure sidreria that is supposed to be decorated like the inside of a cider barrel. Empty cider bottles adorn the walls and the mixed smell of grilled parrilla food and spilt cider fill the air. The atmosphere is alive.

Waiters pour cider (€2.7 per bottle) from a great height and toss out the small remnants in cups, splashing the sticky floor with cider and small droplets on your back. It's a hive of activity.

Luckily the food is good too and reasonably priced. I was so tempted by the beautiful looking Tablon Parrilla Tierra Astur platter with seafood, meat, vegetables all rolled together, but couldn't get unanimous consensus from the group. Next time.

- Bread €1pp - excellent, as in all of Asturias.
- Morcilla Fresca Matachana €3.5 - a lovely flavour with the Asturian morcilla type of very smooth, almost creamy spreadable insides in a taut coating;
- Chipirones a la Plancha €12.5 - baby squids grilled and served, very soft and strongly seasoned;
- Mejillones Bravos Sidra €8.5 - nicely cleaned and debearded mussels in a cider and tomato (I think) sauce. Perfect for the bread.

I also sampled the entrecot de carne roja €25, which was a beautifully rare (even though they asked for medium), tender and flavoursome piece of beef. Really excellent.

- Rueda de Frisuelos €11.5 - a dessert wheel of spelt pancakes with different fillings of creams and jams and chocolate. It was nice but nothing I'd need to have again.

I left smelling gently of cider and meats, with a little bit of sticky cider on the back of my t-shirt. But it was such a great experience here. Highly recommended.

After walking through and exploring the township and park of Oviedo, it was time for food. I didn't have many recommendations for the area other than sidrerias. A few places seemed a little too touristy or multi-multi-language menus but eventually this place had some good elements - a very small outside dining area to enjoy the sunshine, a nice cheap menu del dia, and very pleasant waitresses.

My second tasting of fabada Asturiana was arguably better than the night before in the sidreria. It was also warm, hearty and delicious but the broth had a stronger cured pork flavour. Also there was a little more meat on the pork this time, whereas often it is pure fat. The Asturian chorizo and morcilla were soft and delicate.

The main of ternera guisado con patatinos was a reasonably tender beef stew, although a bit too heavy handed on the salt.

Finally the postre was a creamy yoghurt with strawberries and a nut crumble.

All this with wine, fizzy water for the wine, still water and bread too? A great price of €15 (including €3 extra for the beauty of being outside).

The first evening in Oviedo started at midnight. It's a good thing that's an acceptable dinner time in Spain and so several sidrerias along Calle Gascona were still open and serving.

We entered one at random that looked reasonable (to be honest they are all probably similar in the area) serving a variety of local dishes and seafoods and meats.

The first hit of cider poured by the waiter from a moderate height was quite tart and acidic. But it smoothed out after a few more. It was an interesting introduction to Asturian cider and the ritual.

My first taste of fabada Asturiana was a good one too. A large pot filled with beans, some smooth, soft chorizo and morcilla, a bit of fatty pork, all encased in a warming hearty salty stew. The excellent bread was perfect for mopping it up.

It isn't the healthiest dish (no vegetables), but it's good.