Eat Like Ushi

Considering the hipster look is so natural for Spaniards (the beards, hoop rings for earlobes, tattoos, nose bars), I was still a little surprised to find a hipster cafe in Gijon. It's a raw place, which is an even higher level. The only thing they need now is to add gluten-free and dairy-free although there's a few options for those already.

There website has a smoothie with avocado, dark chocolate and banana which lured me in. However it didn't exist in this place (maybe an updated menu or maybe only the Madrid branch). However the other options were equally enticing - I settled for a Love €5.95 for 500mL and changed my milk from lactose-free to almond (to mix with the chocolate eco, fresas, lucuma, nata y pistachos). The cream made it a little thicker and diluted the flavour slightly of the other ingredients. Whole pistachos added texture. It was good.

I added to the health meal with an Acai bowl €4.5 (base de platano, leche almendras, acai, granola, arandonos, coco rallado) which was sliced banana, strawberry, desiccated coconut granola swimming in an acai and berry thickish almond milk soup. It was refreshing and simple. I think the granola could have been a bit more interesting or the addition of some seeds or more nuts.

Finally I succumbed to a cheesecake dessert €3 which was smooth and sweet with textures of chocolate and walnuts.

It was a huge meal and perhaps not all that healthy in the end, but refreshing and a change from the hearty stews, seafoods and meats I'd other been enjoying in Asturias.

One of Cudillero's most well known sights is fish hanging and drying on clothes lines stretched out with sticks and left for months. The line I saw outside didn't look the most appetising and perhaps that no flies or wandering cats attacked it may be testament.

I was in two minds about trying it - part of me just wanted guaranteed quality seafood but the adventurer in me thought I had to taste a local Cudillero dish. I asked my hotel reception where to get it, and his simple unwavering answer was "El Remo". Of all the restaurant menus I read, El Remo was actually the only one I recall with curadillo on it, in a little section dedicated to Cudillero specialties (the only other option a kind of tripe dish I think). The other options open for the day were El Faro, Opera, one open on either side of El Faro (which had quite basic menu del dias) and the end of the pier (which had quite good sounding menu del dias but the reviews aren't the best on TA).

Whereas the tourists sat outside of El Remo, I chose the atmospheric interior for lunch much to the amusement of some of the locals. I think even the waiter was surprised when I ordered curadillo - perhaps it isn't the chosen dish for many tourists that go there (possibly not the locals either since they'd make their own).

My fears of a weirdly fermented fish were allayed when I sampled the firm but not tough fish flesh (I didn't ask what fish it was) in between onions, fried potatoes and a single slice of marinated red pepper. The sauce wasn't overly salty too and had deep redness of red pepper and paprika probably, almost like a nice Italian pasta sauce. The brown bread (first place in Spain I've been served brown) mopped up the sauce and sandwiched the fish very well.

Out of the Asturian stews, I probable enjoy fabada more but I would be quite happy to eat curadillo again. I didn't get to try fabas con almejas, but maybe next trip.

I tried the arroz con leche €3.5 at the end, just to have it somewhere in Asturias. To my surprise it came instantly - I had read the top layer is crusted with a hot iron so expected it to take a little longer. But not, it had been sealed in advance and refrigerated. They topped it with too much cinnamon and it was a sweet dish that was too much in the end. Never again (by myself at least). The rice was obviously cold and had a little bit of crunch to it, which I like.

The next day for my final meal in Cudillero and Asturias, I spent a solid amount of time (an hour probably) contemplating where to eat. There were only 3 options open this Thursday evening in May - El Remo, Opera and El Faro. Interestingly I had marked Opera and El Faro before I arrived and only went to

 El Remo earlier at the recommendation of my hotel host.

After much to-ing and fro-ing, I ended up back at El Remo.

In summary, Opera looks like they do more unusual combinations and dress things up fancier. El Faro is off the main strip and looked quite nice too, but their options for seafood didn't appeal to me as much. El Remo was easily the most popular and I think it's because their menu is much more standard, homestyle and with the seafood speaking for itself. El Remo is also a little cheaper for those reasons. I think I would have been very happy in any of them, and I wanted Cantabrian/local seafood, which to be fair is probably most of what any of these restaurants have.

El Remo's suggested dish of Calamares de Cudillero en su tinta €18 won the end. Like the curadillo, it doesn't get more local than that. I really wanted percebes (they didn't have them) or navajas but the waiter said that dish would be enough. And it certainly was a large dish of soft, minimally chewy calamari in a saline black liquid. The brown bread again and more potatoes gave balance. It wasn't so strong that needed lemon (and I had the acidic cider too) but in hindsight that could have been nice.

It was actually quite difficult to find restaurant recommendations in Asturias. Tripadvisor has its limitations but I found more reliance on it this trip than other places. In looking for somewhere cheap and cheery to eat, we thought trying to backstreets might be more fruitful than the tourist centre.

My friend wanted to try fabada and meat, so it was limiting looking for a place that both of those. La Costa was the initial target but did not have fabada on the menu. After walking around a while longer, we ended up back here and just asked - yes they had fabada they were preparing for tomorrow. And yes, we could have some.

This was the first place that served complimentary olives. It was a nice change. The cider €2.6 was fine. I found it strange our waitress specifically said they didn't do the high pouring method, however I saw several other waiters in the adjacent room doing it. Odd.

Fabada €8 was a large serve with small pieces of chorizo and morcilla and pork. It was actually a little less strongly flavoured than previous ones - maybe the overnight sit intensifies it more. Nonetheless it was enjoyed with good quality bread. Morcilla Matachana €6.5 was the first time I'd seen it served like this - opened onto little piles on bread with the rich smoothness able to be spread. It finally dawned on me that all morcilla in Asturias was made in this smooth textural way. Finally given the place is an Argentine parrilla, the costillas ternera €13 was bits of cross-section rib on a hot plate. The thick part I ate managed to stay medium rare, but the others cooked to medium quickly, even by sitting them away from the centre quite quickly. It was mildly tender and simply flavoured. Not the best, but adequate.

A cheap solid meal for two in the end.

Every Spanish town, particularly every costal town needs to have decent gelato/helado. In Gijon, the names seem to be Regma, Islandia and La Ibense. There isn't much information about them online. I didn't get to try Islandia. Regma has a few branches and looked ok from the outside. La Ibense was the conveniently located one when taking a nice long walk to the east coast statues.

I was very pleased to see the words "Asociacion de Artesanes del Helado" as we walked in. Whenever in doubt, the words artesanal always reassure me.

The flavours were quite standard but a good variety. As usual I had a small €2.5 with pistachio and avellano/hazelnut. The pistachio had some nuts throughout but really the flavour was quite lacking. It was disappointing. The avellano was a much stronger nut flavour and enjoyable. I tried a few fruit flavours too which was ok.

Overall it was fine but next time I'd try Regma or Islandia instead.

There are two arrocerias (that I could find) in Oviedo. One is called La Genuina de Cimadevilla. I was keen to go to this place. For some reason, my travel friend decided to go to the other one. Calling yourself "the cheapest rice restaurant" is not generally conducive to being a quality restaurant, but you can only try...

After finding the place, it was a surprisingly nice venue. It was also filled with Spanish groups and families all enjoying their rice dishes.

They specialise in different types of rice dishes - banda is dry, melosos is wet and caldosos are soups. That's essentially the explanation from the waiter. Each dish also needs to have a minimum of 2 servings (I didn't see that written on the menu).

After some nice bread, the Clasico (gamba, calamar y mejillon) €21.4 for 2 came out. It was a very heavily flavoured rice, cooked a little under al dente (but I don't mind that crunchiness) with small smalls, squid and mussles inserted. Even though the pan was extremely hot, the waiter mixed it up immediately so there was no burnt crust at the bottom, which was a shame.

I also tried the De La Abuela with chicken, sausage, peas and red peppers. It was a much less flavoured, more simplistic paella, and good in its own way.

It isn't my favourite paella, but it's reasonable and the price isn't too dear. Interestingly Genuina is probably only a little more expensive, so I'd be keen to try that one instead next time.

One of the most famous sidrerias in Asturias is a small chain of places called Tierra Astur. There's two along Calle Gascona (one at the top with an attached small shop, and one in the middle) and also one I saw from outside near the beach in Gijon. There may be others also but these are the ones people are most likely to come across.

Even being a small chain, it does have a reputation for being good. And I must admit it is probably an essential experience in Oviedo. I went to the one in the middle of Calle Gascona, a pure sidreria that is supposed to be decorated like the inside of a cider barrel. Empty cider bottles adorn the walls and the mixed smell of grilled parrilla food and spilt cider fill the air. The atmosphere is alive.

Waiters pour cider (€2.7 per bottle) from a great height and toss out the small remnants in cups, splashing the sticky floor with cider and small droplets on your back. It's a hive of activity.

Luckily the food is good too and reasonably priced. I was so tempted by the beautiful looking Tablon Parrilla Tierra Astur platter with seafood, meat, vegetables all rolled together, but couldn't get unanimous consensus from the group. Next time.

- Bread €1pp - excellent, as in all of Asturias.
- Morcilla Fresca Matachana €3.5 - a lovely flavour with the Asturian morcilla type of very smooth, almost creamy spreadable insides in a taut coating;
- Chipirones a la Plancha €12.5 - baby squids grilled and served, very soft and strongly seasoned;
- Mejillones Bravos Sidra €8.5 - nicely cleaned and debearded mussels in a cider and tomato (I think) sauce. Perfect for the bread.

I also sampled the entrecot de carne roja €25, which was a beautifully rare (even though they asked for medium), tender and flavoursome piece of beef. Really excellent.

- Rueda de Frisuelos €11.5 - a dessert wheel of spelt pancakes with different fillings of creams and jams and chocolate. It was nice but nothing I'd need to have again.

I left smelling gently of cider and meats, with a little bit of sticky cider on the back of my t-shirt. But it was such a great experience here. Highly recommended.

After walking through and exploring the township and park of Oviedo, it was time for food. I didn't have many recommendations for the area other than sidrerias. A few places seemed a little too touristy or multi-multi-language menus but eventually this place had some good elements - a very small outside dining area to enjoy the sunshine, a nice cheap menu del dia, and very pleasant waitresses.

My second tasting of fabada Asturiana was arguably better than the night before in the sidreria. It was also warm, hearty and delicious but the broth had a stronger cured pork flavour. Also there was a little more meat on the pork this time, whereas often it is pure fat. The Asturian chorizo and morcilla were soft and delicate.

The main of ternera guisado con patatinos was a reasonably tender beef stew, although a bit too heavy handed on the salt.

Finally the postre was a creamy yoghurt with strawberries and a nut crumble.

All this with wine, fizzy water for the wine, still water and bread too? A great price of €15 (including €3 extra for the beauty of being outside).

The first evening in Oviedo started at midnight. It's a good thing that's an acceptable dinner time in Spain and so several sidrerias along Calle Gascona were still open and serving.

We entered one at random that looked reasonable (to be honest they are all probably similar in the area) serving a variety of local dishes and seafoods and meats.

The first hit of cider poured by the waiter from a moderate height was quite tart and acidic. But it smoothed out after a few more. It was an interesting introduction to Asturian cider and the ritual.

My first taste of fabada Asturiana was a good one too. A large pot filled with beans, some smooth, soft chorizo and morcilla, a bit of fatty pork, all encased in a warming hearty salty stew. The excellent bread was perfect for mopping it up.

It isn't the healthiest dish (no vegetables), but it's good.

Ever since David Thompson let Nahm slip away in 2012 (http://eatlikeushi.posthaven.com/nahm-london-07-2012) in order to make a better version in Bangkok, London has been seriously lacking a decent modern Thai restaurant. I do like the nearby Rosa's although I'd call that more classic than modern. Melbourne especially has exploded modern South-East Asian with Rice Papr Scrs (http://eatlikeushi.posthaven.com/rice-papr-scrs-melbourne-11-2014) being the first to top Tripadvisor. And moving up the scales, there is the ridiculously popular Chin Chin (http://eatlikeushi.posthaven.com/chin-chin-melbourne-05-2016) and the fine dining of Ezard (http://eatlikeushi.posthaven.com/ezard-melbourne-10-2012).

However my favourite restaurant of all time still remains the magnificent Longrain (http://eatlikeushi.posthaven.com/longrain-melbourne-10-2012, http://eatlikeushi.posthaven.com/longrain-melbourne-01-2017) and I still think I'll be forever chasing a place to match the intense flavours that Martin Boetz uses.

Could London finally be catching up with the extremely highly rated Som Saa? The flavours here definitely reminded me of David Thompson's restaurant and what I've made from Thai Food/Thai Street Food previously.

After not being able to wait long enough last time, coming in solo on a Wednesday evening was a smart move. I sat at the bar and was entertained by the lovely bartender Marta. I also met a nice dude from OC named Nick who was also dining solo at the bar next to me. 

Dragon's Milk cocktail (sticky rice rum, tamarind, px sherry, coconut, condensed milk, salt, sesame) £9 was a lovely sweet, milky concoction that flowed down very easily. I've never heard of sticky rice rum before. It was only a little drink so would have preferred a taller glass to enjoy it more.

The food menu was difficult to pick from. Usually my gauge for places like this is either something with a palm sugar/chilli sauce, or a red curry to see how intense it is. Som Saa didn't have either of those (although the Pitt Cue red curry pork sausage would be the closest and I do like Pitt...) but 3 other dishes stood out clearly to me. A very friendly waitress (sounded like from NZ) suggested the curry and salad choice, and said would get me a complimentary taster of the third with a smile. So impressed.

- Stirfried Welsh mutton with snake beans, chillies, cumin leaf, holy basil - this was actually a half-serve rather than a taster. The mutton and cumin give the dish a deep earthiness, with a small amount of chilli heat. I associate this kind of flavour more with Muslim cooking and Northern China/Uyghur/Xinjiang usually rather than with Thai but was pleasantly surprised to see it on the menu (it isn't on the online menu currently);
- Crispy fermented fish salad with longans & orange chilli dressing £10 - the other salads were also appealing but green papaya salad has been pretty standard for me recently (admittedly moreso the Vietnamese version). The last time I had a Thai version included the tiny crabs which I spent all meal spitting out in between gasping for water due to chilli. This salad was more exciting sounding and turned out to be a very well balanced collection of papaya strands, coriander, lime and crisp fried fish. The sauce had good balance of fish sauce and sourness and a little chilli;
- Aromatic yellow curry of salted goat with potatoes, Thai shallots, cucumber "ajut" £15 - my most desired dish was a heavy, thick, grounded, coconut milk curry with tender goat meat. It had beautiful flavour and texture. A cucumber chilli relish added more sweetness and vinegar to the curry, although I'm not sure if I enjoyed it more before adding it to the mix. Regardless the dish was great;
- Sticky rice £3 - served in a plastic packet in a little bamboo container. Stylish and means it all comes out in a nicely formed ball. £3 is quite a lot for rice for 1 person, but they kindly gave me some to takeaway with my leftover curry. Maybe coconut rice may be on the menu next time...

Marta also gave us a small shot glass of Muay Thai Kick (Thai basil infused gin, Thai basil, kaffir lime leaf, basil seeds, lime) which was an excellent mild flavoured G&T with the strong Thai basil herb taste and some basil seed texture. Really great choice for next time.

The flavours here equal the chills I've had from Needoo's dry meat curry, Hopper's duck heart chukka and Dishoom's chicken pomegranate salad. Maybe not as much as Longrain's crispy fried pork hock in chilli caramel, but that is a salty sweet flavour explosion unrivalled by anything else. Nonetheless the combination of food and friendliness of the staff are simply the best I've had in London and possibly anywhere in the world.

I'll definitely be back for all of the dishes again, particularly the fish salad and goat curry. The soy braised beef cheek with chilli vinegar will certainly be tested someday, so will the Pitt Cue smoked red curry sausage and the dtom klong gung (or maybe they might do tom kai gung if I ask...)

After sampling cheap pre-made student lunch tapas at the downstairs whitewashed haven of Bambu, I wanted to see what else Salamancan tapas had to offer. I managed to go twice to Cuzco, which is so close to the centre but far enough away that I was the only non-Spanish person in there. It's crowded at the counter but the serving staff do an excellent job of noticing everyone and taking food and drink orders.

The first night I sampled 3 delights for the tiny price of €7.70 (which can be almost considered expensive in Salamanca):
- Mini Hamburguesa de Morucha €1.9 - the cheapest turned out to be the best. My first taste of the local Morucha beef was an exceptional one with a medium rare succulent patty, as good as it could be for a patty that thickness;
- Solomillo de Cerdo con Salsa de Setas €3.5 - this was a fine slice of pork tenderloin, soft juicy and tender served with a mushroom sauce;
- Hamburguesita de Morcilla con Cebolla Caramelizada €2.3 - I adore morcilla and black pudding and this was a decent version although not the strongest in flavour. Nonetheless devoured happily.

I went back a week later and didn't take photos but tried an excellent special of grilled octopus and also what seemed to be their most popular dish in Tosta de Jamon con Foie y Cebolla Caramelizada.

A wonderful and more local feel to a tapas venue in Salamanca.