Eat Like Ushi

This place is not in Agra or Jaipur, but the only reason you will stop here is because your driver takes you to eat, toilet and possibly buy things from the tourist gift shop. Walking into the dining room and seeing 5 different tables of 2-4 tourists each reaffirmed this. There are also much larger tables and a buffet cart (empty on this quiet day in January) so I assume it caters for the buses also.

The first thing that struck me about the menu was the prices. Rs. 130 for a plain naan, Rs. 60 for a tea... those are some extreme Indian prices especially for a roadside place in the middle of nowhere.

- Vegetable Kofta - surprisingly excellent little balls in a great curry. I'm unsure what vegetables they used but I never thought a meatball without meat could taste like this;
- Non-Vegetarian Thali (salad, curd, papad, pulses, seasonal vegetable, mutton curry served with rice & chapati) - laal mass curry lacked the real heat it's meant to have but was still nicely flavoured as were the pickles. It was a good mix albeit for Rs. 550.

I would plan accordingly next time and find somewhere else to eat. The real reason for this is that the prices are remarkably high for India and reflect the large tourist eating hall, the buffet option (most likely when it is busier) and the attached gift shop. It would also factor in the commission to the driver who brings you there. Having said that the food was actually very nice, so if you do end up here and the price doesn't bother you, you'll eat well.

Joney's Place seems to be best known for the early morning breakfast you can have before the Taj Mahal opens at 6-7am (depending upon season) or immediately after. It currently sits at #6 on TA for Agra and is mentioned in both LP and Rough Guide.

What took me by unexpected surprise was the 15 or so Korean tourists on this morning squeezed into this tiny place of 4 tables. It could have been an anomaly, however given the walls are covered with Korean and Japanese menus promoting (assumably) packet ramen, it's probably a place to visit for Koreans akin to some European restaurants where every single American visits.

I have to admit the son of the owner who greeted us there was very friendly. On an unusual day of torrential rain, he sent out one of his staff members to purchase us a reasonable quality umbrella for Rs. 200 whereas he said the shops would charge tourists probably 400-500 for the same.

- Mutton biryani – slightly oily, very intensely flavoured and salted;
- Cheese jaffle – pepper, tomato, simple cheese wedged between white bread.

These were washed down with some standard hot chai. The food was adequate as a breakfast. The lassi is supposed to be good but it was too cold and wet that day to be appealing. If anything else is open early morning I'd try that preferentially next time just to see but part of me doubts there would be anything better in the area for the morning.

In October 2014 I took a taxi to the airport. It's an expensive $25 10 minute trip but what options are there? In any case on this one occasion, the friendly driver Mohammed and I were talking about his background. He comes from Bangladesh. This interested me somewhat - I haven't met a Bangladeshi person (that I know of at least) since leaving Whitechapel. I mentioned how Whitechapel is full of Bengali people and similarly has a large number of restaurants that I had my pet dishes. Mohammed mentioned how he used to work in an Indian restaurant in Canberra and happened to be soon opening a restaurant in Manuka with the best naan maker in town. I was intrigued and promised to visit the restaurant when it opened.

Our conversation took my memories back to the first meal I had in Whitechapel at Royal PFC (Perfect Fried Chicken https://www.facebook.com/pages/Royal-Pfc/146879172016202) and the odd friendship I made with the owner Ripon. The memories of Bangladesh fried chicken and biryani (at Royal PFC) and Pakistani lamb dishes of dry curry and biryani (at Needoo) still fill my dreams.

I finally found an opportunity to visit Taste of Bangladesh (and India). I get the feeling the India part was added to make it more mainstream to the public who probably otherwise would not know what food to expect. I think this is unnecessary but it's advertising. The restaurant is inside an arcade and upstairs which makes it much less obvious and without the foot traffic from the sidewalks outside that every other place in Manuka benefits from, which is a shame because the food is better and cheaper than what is around.

- Sour Lassi - probably the only thing that wasn't to my taste. It seems much more salty than sour, and not quite what I'd expect from a lassi. It is near identical to the buttermilk drink I had in India - a definite acquired sour fat drink;
- Mango Lassi - made from mango pulp, a nice sweet yoghurty drink. I'd prefer it a little thicker and less sweet, but it wasn't syrupy and there was no discernible sugar crystals which is great.

I was only interested in the Bangladeshi dishes, which are helpfully marked on the menu.

- Kacchi Biryani - a uniquely flavoured biryani with tender pieces of goat (I think). Identical flavour to Royal PFC but less oily. Unlike the various Indian biryanis (ie. no vegetables, seeds, fruit). I can't explain the flavour, you just have to try it;
- Prawn Masala - very generous serving of 8 king prawns (for $16.50) cooked with some fresh crunch in a flavoursome grainy curry;
- Duck Curry - two tender duck legs in a very mild understated smooth curry;
- Eggplant Bhorta - roasted eggplant with the skin stripped then pulped. Had a powerful smokey char personality;
- Garlic Naan - very soft, crisp on top, not thick and pillowy (if you like it that way) but very very good. I'd personally prefer much more garlic on top.

The food was excellent and very different flavours to Indian restaurants (and cheaper/better value than those in Canberra also). The biryani gave me a nostalgic smile. I'll definitely be back.

Next time I would order any of the food dishes again and keen to try the other Bangladeshi dishes (Fish Bengali and Goat Curry).

The mainly pedestrian streets to the south of the Taj Mahal leaves luxury far behind. Given that most people only stay one night in Agra, I thought it would be fine. Needless to say the extremely basic accommodation is... extremely basic. Similarly the food options around the West Gate entrance (the East Gate is a nicer area apparently) are limited and known more for the rooftops that give a very overstated view of the Taj Mahal than the flavours themselves.

Of these options, Shankara seemed to be the best reputed using a combination of Lonely Planet, Tripadvisor (#8 in Agra) and various other websites. I must admit that in the darkness of 7pm, I couldn't be sure where in the distance the Taj Mahal was. If all the rooftop views are similar, I'm unsure why people talk about it so much. Anyway at least the food at Shakara is good and known for cheap thali.

- Shankara New Special Thali – best parts were the Zeera fried rice (spiced like biryani), a simple paneer and delicious mixed vegetable curry;
- Special Thali - a simpler version but with plain rice and without the vegetable curry;
- Spiced chai – more like black tea and sugar than any spices.

It isn't actually in Agra nor Delhi. But the only reason you'll actually stop here is because you are driving between Delhi and Agra and need somewhere to stop for lunch and a toilet. I've heard that all taxi drivers (all over the world really) get commission to bring in roadtripping guests, but I can't imagine this one would as the prices are simply too cheap. Additionally all the other people eating there at this time were Indian, but I'd assume the large parking area would also cater to tourist buses.

There is a nice outdoor seated area in a small garden. An elderly Indian man started asking me about Australia and his friends that live there. I was suspicious of his intentions at first, but it turned out he was being inquisitive and polite and then went about the rest of his day. A father and daughter were dressed immaculately busking in traditional Rajasthani clothes and it's a shame they had disappeared before I managed to get a photo. Unfortunately I didn't see anyone else during the Rajasthan trip who was dressed like this (surprising lack of buskers in tourist areas).

The outdoor area serves cheap as chips quick snacks. The inside seated area is perhaps catered toward the less adventurous or more ravenous, with hot meals cooked to order.

- Bread Pakora – fried bread filled with a unexpected blend of peas;
- Raj Kachori – fried ball filled with potato, topped with yoghurt, pomegranate, coriander sauce, sugar syrup. Wonderful combination of flavours and textures with bright visual appeal;
- Vegetable Biryani – for a roadside pitstop, this was surprisingly good and possibly the best of the trip with minimal oil and excellent vegetable flavours.

After the incredible Jama Masjid (combined with the less incredible enforced tourist fee and unnecessary guide fee) it was time for lunch. Luckily Karim's is very nearby and well reputed from Rough Guide and also online. It would good to see the majority of people dining in the room were Indian, from young families to couples to the older generation.

It's a little confusing at first trying to figure out if all the rooms are the same restaurant or if some are trying to feed off the name of another. They reassured me that each was connected to the same restaurant and this was proven in that all the food came from the same central cooking area - a deep pit of a tandoor, pots of curries and a separate charcoal grill with wafting kebab aromas.

- Seekh kabab – incredibly soft smooth mutton mince grilled on a skewer;
- Mutton burra – chargrilled mutton, very strong meaty flavour, soft and melty gelatinous texture I haven't before seen in mutton let alone from any grilled meat;
- Roti – soft aerated bubbly, thicker base;
- Qeema naan – thin crispy deep flavour;
- Vegetable curry – simple looking but tasty buttery curry.

The couple on the table next to me were expertly devouring by hand the mutton biryani and mutton stew, both of which looked excellent. If I hadn't previously been, I just became a huge fan of mutton and this place does it extraordinarily well.

One of the recommended experiences in Old Delhi is the Chandni Chowk trawl. This street is conveniently directly opposite the entrance to the Red Fort and seems to extend all the way to New Delhi station. Despite the road being so long, the dense amount of people and traffic means a short walk is probably enough. Lucky then that Jalebi Wala is located at one of the first intersections and the road the leads on towards the incredible Jama Masjid.

It is a store apparently since 1884. The server informed us there is only two things - jalebi and samosa - in order to specialise and do them as well as possible. And they surely do that.

- Jalebi – sweet sugary honey syrup wrapping a thick batter with a soft core. This is only place in India I tried this, but I can tell this would be one of the best;
- Samosa – ordered this to help fill the lack of breakfast in my stomach and glad I did. It was filled with whole peas tightly bound in the most delicious soft yet crisp seasoned pastry.

58% rating? Very funny Dr. Jones! Maybe less comical for the restauranteurs than the little kid in Temple of Doom. Going through the Manuka options in the Entertainment Book even if the food isn't that good (let's be honest - in today's food climate around Australia you have to be of at least some reasonable standard to survive, especially with average ratings, unless your restaurant is a front for drug running etc.), a free main course made it an easy decision to test out.

Excuse the photos - it was a high glare day sitting next to the window.

- Chipotle Chicken Wings (mind boggling chicken wings served with citrus creme fraiche) - tasty crispy, not overly oily. Moderately tender chicken. Didn't seem to have much chipotle/chilli kick;
- special Summer Seafood Paella - not a bad collection of mussels, prawns, squid and fish. Rice was well cooked (not al dente if you prefer that) with what I assume was a chicken stock base;
- Confit Duck (five-spice salted duck legs, ginger & shallot relish, superior soy caramel, nori coated rice cakes, roast baby corn & black sesame bok choy) - really good collection of flavours and textures. Particularly the rice cakes with crispy nori salty coating and chewy vinegar rice. The duck wasn't bad either but could have been more tender.

Overall the food was good with reasonable prices. The Entertainment Book made it excellent value. I'll be back next EB year.

02-2015

I actually tried to have breakfast at Penny University however on a Sunday their kitchen doesn't open until 8am. Considering that would have only given me 10mins to eat, I wandered down the street at found Me & Mrs Jones serving food from 7:30am. Since leaving London, I haven't seen black pudding served anywhere. Fyshwick did have one in a vacuum seal once but I didn't buy it. Hence my surprise when I saw it on the breakfast menu here.

I enquired as to a chai latte and was informed it was a powder that contained "a lot of sugar". Doesn't sound enticing.

- Mixed Berry Smoothie - blended berries, milk and possibly a banana but with way too much honey. It was too sweet;
- The Irish (fried eggs with black pudding, smoked tomatoes and bois boudran on house made potato bread) - reasonable fried eggs, excellent externally-bought black pudding on bread that I couldn't really tell contained potato. What was disappointing was that one potato was undercooked and firm and the tomatoes were burn-smoked and horrible.

I wouldn't come back here for breakfast. If I did maybe the fresh options would be better.

Going through the Entertainment Book, the 64% rated Belluci's in Manuka wouldn't have been my first choice but I'm slowly running out of closeby options. I've often found I don't necessarily agree with low ratings that are often given for service and the 25% discount offered here seemed like as good a reason to try this place.

- Insalata Panzanella (fried sour dough, heirloom tomatoes, buffalo mozzarella, green olives & roast peppers) - conveniently only a few days before, Jamie's 15min meals had shown me this salad for the first time. It tasted every bit as good as I had imagined whilst waiting Jamie;
- Tortellini all' Anatra (hand made duck parcels with mushrooms, asparagus, pistachio & smoked ricotta) - $30
- Galleto alla Diavola (grilled spatchcock with Calabrian spices, buttermilk slaw & hand cut potatoes) - $36

I must admit from the delicious fresh-tasting salad, to the rich heavy duck pasta and the spiced bird (which needed a little more salt/seasoning for my liking but was still good), that I actually like the food here. I do appreciate that the prices are extremely high for Italian - $30 pasta and $36 poultry. The most expensive Italian places I've eaten are Caffe E Cucina (Melbourne) which is a small step up in price and big in atmosphere, and The River Cafe (London) which is an enormous step up in price and reputation. Given this, it is difficult to justify Belluci's without the Entertainment Book discount.

Maybe it's just me, but I find it difficult to pay high prices for Italian generally (eg. never going to Grossi Fiorentino) unless they have decidedly high world reputation (eg. nearly ended up at Combal.Zero in Turin if it wasn't for the drenching rain).

Finding somewhere open and available to eat near Flemington on Boxing Day dinner was proving to be a last minute debacle. There's the standard (however good quality) options of Chef Lagenda, Laksa King and I Love Dumplings but the day needed a slight change to the cheap heavy Asian flavours in the area. A search on Urbanspoon uncovered Little Africa with its ridiculous 96% rating. A quick phone call confirmed they somehow still had dining vacancy and it was set.

The menu makes it easy to order - individual stew or the vegetarian or meat/seafood combinations of the day. Chai with kamman tasted like a tea with heavy cardamom infusion. I had to add half tsp of sugar for my own palate.

Of the vegetable dishes, my particular favourites were the tumtummo (split lentils stewed in a thick but mild sauce with seasoning) and exceptional fool (fava beans, cooked until tender mashed then mixed with ghee butter and seasoning, lemon juice & cumin topped with green chilli, onions and tomato). The meat and fish curries were also good, particularly the lamb zighini (cubes of lamb slowly cooked in a rich berbere sauce with mixed spices and clarified butter).

Injera had the right mild amount of sour tang which to me is essential in this cuisine. Although I was a little disappointed that an extra injera was listed at $1 each both online and inhouse (which is the retail price in Melbourne - visit Racecourse Road) whereas in the end they told me it was now $2. Not a big deal but unexpected in the end.

It has been a while since I had Ethiopian food last in either Footscray, Flemington, Collingwood or Nairobi. Although slightly more expensive I'd happily come back.

Next time I would order the combination of the day again. Even though I have my favourites, it's the variety of 6 that keeps the meal more interesting.