Dos Palillos, Berlin 05-2012

German cuisine isn't particularly well regarded. Further still, Berlin isn't known to be a food town especially for what can be respected as German style cuisine. Thus searching for somewhere to eat for the only dinner on a weekend trip actually proved to be quite difficult.

Eventually (exactly how I can't recall) came across the name Dos Palillos - an Asian/Japanese-style tapas place originally based in Barcelona and relatively recently expanded into Berlin. Although it doesn't have the most universally favourable reviews online, itcertainly sounded interesting and more appealing to most of the other considerations in Berlin.

The menu is basically limited to a set course - the longest journey is about 19 courses, but you can choose shorter ones should you feel less gluttonous.

Naturally, I was glutton-full and ordered the menu Dos Palillos Festival.

- Aperitif - orange & mango sake, alcoholic & refreshing shot;
- Tsukemono (marinated vegetables) - mountain potato & yuzu and marinated spring onions;
- White Aspargus topped with miso, mayonnaise & soy sauce - really nice, clean asparagus without the powerful flavour of the common green variety;
- Namban Zuke with Red Snapper - red snapper, carrot, asparagus in a tangy rice vinegar marinade;
- Sunomono (Japanese salad) - two types of seaweed with mussels complete with rich seawater flavour;
- Crab Salad with Pomelo & Roasted Peanuts - great texture combination with nice sourness cutting into the crab (my peanut-free friend received a salad of octopus, cucumber & sesame seeds);
- Navajas (razor clam thai style) - really really delicious razor clams with curry oil;
- Kimchi cabbage, radish, salted octopus;
- Shabu shabu of octopus, enoki mushroom, squid & Wagyu beef in light soy flavoured soup;
- Anchovy Tempura filled with umeboshi topped with yuzu powder - unusual and great flavour combination of salty anchovies, sour umeboshi and citrus yuzu;
- Grilled eggplant with dark & light miso and shiso leaf - fantastic texture with strong miso similar to the well known black miso cod variations around the world;
- Prawn-Steamed Dumpling (Chinese dumplings made with potato flour & filled with fresh small prawns & Iberico pork belly) - looked great, but not particularly different to usual yumcha other than an added bacon-ish edge;
- Eel Temaki with Nori - self-wrapped, crispy nori and melting quality roasted eel;
- Baby Vegetable Wok - standard stir fry vegetables, but a good change during the course;
- Meat Gyoza (pan-fried crispy Japanese dumpling with minced pork & nira) - decent, but not as juicy inside as the best I've had;
- Japo Burger (homemade bread, beef, cucumber, ginger, topped with shiso leaf) - pattie with ketchup & shiso marinade mixed into it and lots of flavour; sadly too small;
- Grilled Pork Rib Cantonese-Style - Iberian pork rib roasting over fire all night in front of us. Not as tender as it looked but still tasted great as expected;
- Fruta Cru - Melon soaked in Chinese rice wine, pineapple soaked in sambuca, apple soaked in sake, pear eaten with spearmint; strong and refreshingly alcoholic;
- Japanese mochi cakes with strawberry filling topped with strawberry jelly, strawberry cup filled with strawberry vodka.

All-in-all a nice set course meal. €70 for 19 fusion Japanese-Spanish courses really isn't that much. Good to see the finest cuisine in the world being fused into European kitchens.

Next time I would order the same 19 course extravanganza. Even if you aren't as hungry, don't skimp on the experience. You'll regret it later when you walk around Berlin searching for something else decent that isn't a wurst.

Kantina Cafe, Malta 06-2012

Wandering through the lovely town of Valletta in Malta, I had my usual list of places to try. Because it was an early evening, they were all closed. Searching for somewhere to eat, we came across many places in great locations all which looked too touristy to be decent. Eventually we settled upon Kantina Cafe located beneath a pretty cathedral (turns out to be St. John's) and a spot to watch people walk by and relax.

Exhausted we stopped here as the menu was nicely written on a chalkboard, the food looked good and it had a outdoor seating to enjoy the weather.

Since Malta has quality seafood given its island location, we naturally selected the dishes which highlighted these ingredients.

Ravioli (crab & lobster with prawn bisque) had a beautiful combination of flavours of all the wonders you'd expect from shellfish. Crab & lobster meat wrapped in delicate ravioli skins and soaked in a rich prawn sauce. Pasta is rarely this good.

Mixed Seafood Platter (mussels, vongole, king prawns, octopus, langoustines) served with a big bowl of fries was fantastic also. Butter, garlic and chives dressed the delicate ingredients and had me savouring every bite and licking my fingers at the end.

A great place to stumble upon. If you're in the mood, there is a cheap cocktail menu to help time pass peacefully.

Next time I would order the same two dishes. Rabbit is another popular ingredient in Malta, but I don't think it can ever beat good seafood.

Nopi, London 09-2012

I've owned Ottolenghi's much reputed vegetarian cookbook Plenty for a while. Admittedly although I've read the recipes and salivated over the pictures of healthiness, I've never had the audacity to try to cook them. I suppose after I visit the restaurant itself, I may be more inspired to try. It is on to-eat list for London, but just haven't got around to it just yet.

For those who don't know, Ottolenghi in London is meant to be a haven for vegetarians. Given the price of quality meat and seafood around here, I'm not surprised there are a lot of vegetarians to be catered for. I thought they would likely cater for other particular eaters and so when a friend from Melbourne with gluten-free preferences came, I discovered Ottolenghi's spinoff restaurant Nopi was very well reputed for the gluten-free mob.

We ate in the downstairs communal table section, which I highly recommend. It is a much more social space great for casual encounters, and allows vision of the open kitchen. Upstairs looks much more formal-restaurant/date-night which is fine if that is what you want.

We tried a variety of dishes from the dedicated gluten-free menu (which works out to be about 75% of the starters and nearly all the mains), selecting 6 share plates in a Middle-Eastern-inspired tapas meal:

- Roasted Aubergine, Feta, Pomegranate (really excellent mix of flavours and textures - smoked aubergine, salty creamy feta, sweet pomegranate and crunchy pine nuts)
- Purple Beetroot, Raw Golden Beetroot, Candy Beetroot, Labneh (sweet selection of beetroot, simply prepared)
- Organic Prawns, Kohlrabi, Bacon Sauerkraut, Jalapeno (great quality prawns with nice herbs, the sauerkraut was pretty ordinary)
- Roasted Hake, Chickpea Puree, Mussels (fish texture was good, flavours didn't stand out)
- Twice-cooked Baby Chicken, Lemon Myrtle Salt, Chilli Sauce (very SE Asian inspired combination of flavours, delicious)
- Grilled Pork Tenderloin, Peanut Mango Acar, Picked Pomelo (medium-rare pork had marvellous texture, the rest sounds nice but didn't have much impact)

Overall the meal was very tasty and outlined the skillful cooking working within a particular gourmet box, in this case gluten-free but also would well cater for vegetarians. A little pricey for the serving size, but quality ingredients cooked well always come with cost.

Next time I would order any of the vegetable starters as they all sound sensational. Sweet Potato, Figs & Goat's Cheese and Valdeon Cheesecake, Pickled Beetroot, Truffle Honey and Roasted Green, Purple, White Cauliflower, Ricotta, Golden Raisins are just some of the others I didn't get to try. Supplement these with some seafood or meat starters that take your fancy, eat downstairs in the communal area and wash it down with a Lychee & Grapefruit Spritzer like I did.

NOPI on Urbanspoon

Bea's of Bloomsbury, London 09-2012

My bus from Whitechapel into town always gives me a lovely view of St. Paul's - day or night, sunshine or rain, it's always different and special. A few times I got off just to marvel at it from the outside (as I haven't managed to swallow the huge admittance fee nor turn up during mass just to look around) and wander the area.

Nearby is Bea's which I'd read does an excellent banana bread (true) but I discovered also does the only chai latte in town that remotely resembles the type I like in Melbourne.

On my visit, it tended to be older people enjoying cakes and tea but whatever the preference it is a great daytime break.

Beas of Bloomsbury Menu Reviews Photos Location and Info - Zomato

Fiskeriet, Oslo 08-2012

Living in London has meant that it isn't too difficult for me to find fish and chipperies giving off their sweet fried scent to fill the streets. When I read about some of the best fish and chips around in Oslo, it was worth a big map mark and a circle to ensure I didn't forget it.

Set in a nice plaza that fills with lovely sunshine on a lucky weather day, Fiskeriet doubles as a fishmonger and a lunch venue (officially closes at 6pm, although I did see it open well beyond on a warm evening).

What impressed me once I sat down and looked at the menu was how *normal* the prices seemed. 6 oysters for 110NOK (approx. AUD18) and takeaway fish and chips for 89NOK (approx. AUD15) are prices I'd be content with anywhere else in the world. I did feel the need to sit and enjoy the bar seating which meant I paid 149NOK for my fish and chips - seemed like a slightly excessive surcharge, but still reasonably cheap for any sitdown meal in Oslo.

The fish this day was halibut, crispy fried in a lovely seasoned batter and topped with salt flakes and coriander. Wonderful. The chips were standard, nothing particularly special to say about them. I also had 6 strong oysters from France (fin de clair, as I found out Norway has no local oysters at all) which made it a very satisfying meal altogether.

Next time I would order fish and chips to takeaway and sit in the plaza to absorb some atmosphere.

Apent Bakeri, Oslo 08-2012

This small collection of bakeries is well reputed. On a short city break in Oslo, it makes good sense to stop through one of these. Sure, bread isn't a particularly Norwegian specialty but Scandanavia seems to do it particularly well as I've tasted in each of the restaurants that serves it as a complimentary. Additionally you can use this place as somewhere nice to stop and have a coffee, calorie hit and breather, as well as get some goodies to take away to eat in the park overlooking the Palace and city nearby. Lastly, it is more affordable than any cafe/restaurant for lunch you might otherwise be considering.

I had a croque monsieur which was standard but satisfying. It wasn't the best quality ham nor the cheese as strong as I'd like, but my stomach still appreciated it. I also had a croissant for late which was decent (not as buttery as the best I've had) and a muesli/seeded roll that was a great afternoon (and breakfast the next morning) snack.

Next time I would order the cinnamon buns. I didn't realise this was a particular special of these bakeries, so would have to try it if I was back again. Otherwise I'm sure it won't be too difficult to find something you like.

Lisa Elmqvist, Stockholm 08-2012

As with most places lucky enough to be build upon water, Scandinavia is well known for quality seafood. What seems to be unique is the local ways the seafood is prepared and presented.

Scandinavian seafood dishes seem to make use of tiny little prawns, generally served boiled and chilled, occasionally chopped. Something unique seems to be toast skagen - these little creatures made into a seafood salad and eaten with toast.

Lisa Elmqvist is a known place within a market that combines skills as a fishmonger, a takeaway of chilled seafood, a nice casual bar seated area, and more formal sitting area which allow a few daily hot food options. Being Scandanavia, sometimes looking at the menu makes the price a bit difficult to swallow - but that's what it takes to eat well and known if the reputation is deserved.

I tried the reknowned Toast Skagen SEK135 (mixed shrimps, dill & mayonnaise served on toast, garnished with trout roe) and an additional dish to make a more educated opinion on the place - Avocado Alexandra SEK142 (mix of smoked salmon, shrimps, honey, dijon mustard, sour cream, mayonnaise & basil on avocado).

The seafood quality is excellent. The smoked salmon had an unexpected creamy texture that I haven't come across before, and a lighter smokiness than some of the usual heavily flavoured versions. Both the salmon and shrimp versions of the seafood salad were good too and everyone likes a little caviar to give the dishes extra flavour and texture.

The price is the only consideration you'll need as food in Scandanvia is expensive, and Lisa Elmqvist is probably at the higher end of those places additionally. At least you know the seafood is fresh and quality.

Next time I would order quite happily either of the same dishes. Of both dishes, I probably preferred the Avocado Alexandra, but the Skagen is certainly something you'll struggle to find in other regions of the world. Gravlax is also a specialty of the region I would consider for next time.

Bakfickan, Stockholm 08-2012

I can't say that I recall having specifically Swedish meatballs previously. Even though every Ikea in the world probably serves them, the name never appealed to me. Don't get me wrong; I've always enjoyed the "typical" Italian meatballs usually drenched in delicious pasta sauce and so wondered how different a Swedish version could be.

Given that Scandinavia is extraordinarily expensive especially on food matters, picking only one well respected meatball place in Stockholm was a necessary decision. Fortunately (or unfortunately) there isn't much information out there comparing many nor stating one as the clear city leader. Bakfickan did receive a few very favourable reviews from a travel magazine, tripadvisor and another random internet source and so my decision was made.

Let me start off by simply saying the Kottbullar meatballs SEK165 at Bakfickan are remarkably good. Each bite left me awestruck as to my underestimation of this simple Swedish treat. The difference lies in the taste and particularly the texture - the ridiculously soft and creamy smooth meat gave rise to a light flavour but not the heavy beef I expected from meatballs. I can only imagine the meat mince is ground incredibly finely until it is transformed into a ball of meatball paste.

Bakfickan served it with lingonberry jam (adding sweetness), pickled cucumber (adding tanginess) and mashed potato (adding weight and starch) to bring out a balanced flavoured mouthfull each time.

The complimentary bread was also great and added another texture to the mix, as well as a nice snack in anticipation.

What else can I say? I'm sold on the meatballs.

Next time I would order meatballs, meatballs, meatballs. If stomach space persists, I'd suggest trying the other prevalent local dishes such as roe or crayfish toast or the prawn salad and hope Bakfickan have a nice take on them.

Trzesniewski, Vienna 04-2012

Many internet views of Vienna list Trzesniewski as a must-visit. It is a simple place off the main plaza specialising in snacks of eggs on bread. It really isn't any more complicated than that.

There is a lot of variety to pick from - all kinds of spices and vegetables which have been layered between slabs of essentially chilled scrambled egg. On this occasion I chose picantes (peppers), mushrooms and paprika.

The bread isn't anything special worth particular mention - it is untoasted and quite plain. A nice sourdough would be a better option. The topping is as expected if you read the above description - chills scrambled egg with a particular flavour injected. It really isn't any mindblowing experience that others seem to gain from eating them.

Next time I would order whatever topping you want. It is certainly fine for a daytime snack while wandering through the lovely central streets of Vienna, but I wouldn't go out of my way to find it.

Bouquet Garni, Malta 06-2012

#1 on Tripadvisor for Mellieha and the whole of Malta is Bouqeut Garni. I thought a restaurant in Malta with a French name would be a slight risk but after a disappointing first night at the #2 restaurant in Mellieha this seemed like the only option for redemption. What a fantastic meal.

Located on a non-descript corner on the main room (which meant the unfortunate occasional raucous as local buses went by), the restaurant comprises a local family with two parents who attend to the guests and serve with great manners and two self-taught sons who prepare the meals in the kitchen.

At the start of the night, you are presented with the a serving platter of the freshly delivered fish of the evening. Depending upon the luck of the catch, this could also include a lovely little lobster from which to choose your seafood. Given this presentation, it would be a serious folly to not have the all-local seafood platter. Ours comprised of a whole baked fish, 4 large pieces of perfectly seared rare tuna, some large grilled prawns and some of the juiciest mussels I've ever had the pleasure of meeting. This was served with a large serve of beautifully roasted potatoes and nice vegetables to balance the meal.

The entree salad of (an unexpected large wheel of fried) blue cheese, salad and apples was a nice introduction to the meal but certainly secondary to the main. I would only suggest it for those who are cheese-fanatics.

If in Mellieha, eat here. Support the family, eat good food, be happy.

Next time I would order the seafood platter again. There is no contest (unless dining on your own in which case it may be excessively large). If available, the lobster spaghetti looked fantastic as an alternative for 1 or to share.