Eat Like Ushi

I wasn't really sure what to eat for my last meal in Moscow. After returning from the Golden Ring, I had a ticket booked on the midnight train Red Arrow to St. Petersburg (http://eatlikeushi.posthaven.com/red-arrow-train-moscow-and-st-petersburg-06-2013). This meant that after I arrived back at my original hostel to pick up my bags, I didn't really have a lot to do, nor the enthusiasm to venture far.

I ended up wandering up and down the streets (as I often do when I can't decide what to have) until settling on Teremok. The ads outside for cheap food (as I'd been quite liberal with spending along the Golden Ring) coupled with seeing a few solo people enjoying (relatively) their meals and not having any other preferences made the decision.

Teremok specialise in blini (pancakes) and do them well. Meat and melted cheese are encased in soft but slightly crisp coatings. I added an extra of pelmeni (dumplings) to complete the carbohydrate and protein meal. It wasn't the best meal I'd had, but it was enough to keep me sated for the journey ahead.

One of the highlights of my trip to Russia was the Red Arrow Train from Moscow to St. Petersburg. Considering the train departs at 2355, I ended up lazing around the hostel chatting to a Mexican guy from the USA and one of the blonde Russian hostel receptionists. I eventually left and made my way to the station.

It isn't the fastest train (that is the Sapsan) but it's certainly the most famous. The train itself actually looks sleek and impressive. I spent a good few minutes peering through the windows into the higher class rooms and the dining cart.

The bed is comfortable, the other guests were courteous and quiet. After a pleasant sleep, I sat up to snack on the free box of breakfast items - a very average breadroll, a packet of water and a few snacks. Overall it was a pleasant trip which arrived at the estimated 0800.

St. Petersburg and the White Nights awaited - what a stunning city...

Suliko was on my list as a well-known Georgian cafe that specialised in khinkali - Georgian meat-filled dumplings with a blend of herbs and spices.

I walked toward Gorky Park in search of a particular food place. It was supposed to be near the intersection of Krimsky Val and Leninsky Ave but sadly after 30mins of walking up and down I couldn't find it (nor can I remember the name of it). Luckily I had a backup in mind (honestly I was going to eat there anyway) in Pelman Cafe within Gorky Park itself.

Pelman Cafe served handmade dumplings. In the end I didn't know what I was ordering, and a older Russian lady who spoke English ended up suggesting a standard savoury and an after sweet option. They were quite nice and eating outside made the experience more pleasurable.

Gorky Park has a large decorative entrance, water fountain displays and lots of paths to walk. On a beautiful sunny day, it was an excellent change from the industrial and hectic streets of inner Moscow. There are also a few stands that sell some kind of icecream (the young female serving had no patience to tell me anything about it - ie. generally rude as hell).

After a very busy morning marvelling at the incredible Kremlin, I went in search of this cafe known to serve Belarusian cuisine. The setting and decor seems quite traditional with some decorations similar to those in Moscow's famed train stations. Considering the close proximity to the tourist sites, I was surprised there weren't more in here. It's nice having some time and space to yourself and only overhearing local languages.

- Salata Belavezhskaja Pushcha (slices of boiled tongue, fresh cucumber, hazelnuts, corn, egg)
- Torby Paleshuka (pork fillet stuffed mushrooms, onion and cheese, with marinated cabbage)

The best views of the sunset, Red Square and the impressive walls of the Kremlin are seen from the rooftop O2 Lounge at the Ritz-Carlton.

In my best holiday bum gear, I was allowed up the stairs to join the tourists and rich locals enjoying the views amongst cocktails, bar snacks and a ferrari that happened to be stationed up there (no idea how it got there...)

The atmosphere was enhanced by two young drunken trashy Russian girls who were loud and gave me an alluring finger to join them. I smiled and politely declined. Soon after they were joined by 3 men who I'm sure would only be so happy to pay for all of their indulgences throughout the evening.

One of the most mentioned restaurants in Moscow is Pushkin. The reputation is of an extremely ornate interior, high food prices, possibly the attraction of tourists and only a select group of locals. The prices aren't actually all that much compared to typical Australia ($10 entree, $20-25 mains are quite cheap given the setting) so I wasn't too fussed.

I had read about the mushroom pelmeni, but thought I'd try something more unique to the restaurant. The French-Russian cuisine wouldn't be on my food trip anywhere else. The dishes were well presented and nicely cooked. I think the flavours were fine but nothing that made the meal more memorable than other places in Russia. I suppose I preferred the things more simple and homely during that trip.

- Trout stuffed with vegetable mousse, crayfish, mushrooms and asparagus garnish;
- Cafe Pushkin dessert - a dome of chocolate and sliced almonds with an ice-cream and sponge.

Apparently I was seated in the Pharmacy, and there is a whole differently decorated section called the Library (which looks even more spectacular and has the same menu with higher prices). I suppose I would go again to enjoy that atmosphere, although the prices between my experience and now seem to have gone up by 20% and the Library menu is another 10-20% more than that. I'll have to consider...

A well known bakery chain with multiple locations around Moscow (http://wolkonsky.com/en/russia/moscow/). The black currant pastry was something I read in a post that gave me some good ideas for Moscow eating (http://travelsort.com/blog/8-things-to-eat-in-moscow). Luckily for me one of the branches was right around the corner from my cosy accommodation Apple Hostel.

It gave me a good place to find my morning breakfast before the short walk to Red Square.