It simply translates into "Once upon a time in Paris..." and the cool lounge atmosphere of the dimly lit bar is certainly reminiscent of a place you'd travel back in time to see.
Despite the Parisian name, I stuck with the local port and didn't regret it. The red was delicious, sweet and a pleasure.
It does have my reminiscing about once-upon-a-time just thinking about it.
The last meal in Porto was always going to be a big one. I'd actually tried to come here two nights earlier but unfortunately it was closed at that time of night. Solar Moinro de Vento is best known for local cooking, and the lunch session here was eventually made up of Portuguese families. It lies towards the north-west end of town near a lot of other restaurants and cafes, the Livraria Lello, some churches and on the lengthy walk to Casa da Musica. So there is no reason to not come into this area. The restaurant itself is a little further out on its own perhaps making it less frequented by people not in the know.
- Caldo Verde (green soup)
- Sopa de Peixe (fish soup with mint)
- Tripas a Moda do Porto (typical Oporto-style tripes with beans) - it was a daring day to try a local specialty of tripe. I can't say I especially like the texture of tripe (as confirmed with this dish) but the flavours are very nice, warming and homestyle;
- Filetes de Polvo (octopus fillets with today's rice) - this was an enormous serving (for one) of beautifully fried octopus tentacles with an even larger pot filled with a tomato rice stew. Fantastic.
I was actually in the area considering brunch at Miss'Opo (which has a great reputation as a cafe and guest house) but the menu didn't seem particularly exciting or local. Nonetheless the place looks cool, but I'm sure I'd prefer eating at Solar.
Next time I would order the tripe (for tradition) and the octopus again. I still think those are the two best-looking options on the menu. Skip the soup/entrees/sides as the servings are large (unless you happen to be in a decent sized group).
Considering Lisbon had one of the finest gelatarias in the middle of town that I've ever been to (complete with large servings and unlimited number of flavours even for a small cup), it was surprising I didn't see many in Porto.
I actually had to specifically look online to find one in Porto. Sincelo came up and happened to be very near a food destination I was planning (Solar Moinro de Vento) and so it seemed the perfect dessert follow-up. The gelato is fine without being overly memorable. It's nonetheless something to look forward to.
The ribeira riverside is an enchanting place to be at night. I'm sure it's busier, more atmospheric but less charming in summer. In the cool slightly rainy evening of October, the embankment was quiet and the illuminated bridge, signs of the port companies and reflections of lamp lights off the rio douro river made it excellent for a stroll.
The cafes along the ribeira itself are supposedly best avoided (as seems to be the case in every major city), but A Grade is on a little street off the main area and reputed for simple home-style cooking. The walk from the Se cathedral down to the embankment is probably the best way, alleys and winding cobblestones leading steeply downwards. Just be aware you'll have to walk back up... in order to not get lost the easiest way is the stairs near the base of the bridge (there's also a funicular if you are there early enough).
- Caldo Verde (cabbage and potato soup)
- Salada Portuguesa (mixed salad with cod)
- Cabrito Assado no Forno (young goat roast in the oven)
- Rojoes a Grade (A Grade pork crackling)
For some reason I had forgotten the main intention there was to try the seafood casseroles and sardine stew. That will have to be the plan for next time. The servings are very generous so I'd skip the soup and entrees and stick to the lovely mains.
Very nearby on the same street is Adega Sao Nicolau, which is supposedly reputed for no frills seafood. Maybe next time.
Next time I would order any of their seafood stews, the reliable roast goat or perhaps try the rabbit stew.
Saying this is possibly the nicest bar experience I've ever had would sound like an statement difficult to qualify. I'm not really one that frequents bars too often (other than when I'm dragged there by a few enthusiastic friends), but for a cool evening walking along the ponte de Dom Luis promenade around midnight, the enigmatic vocals of middle-aged Portuguese crooner filled the air near the base of the bridge. Traversing around opened into a little platform nestled under the bridge, along the water, in front of the live singer. The wait staff brought me a blanket to shield from the cold, some port (because that's what happens in Porto) and a simple dessert I don't remember too well.
What I do remember is the atmosphere, the clear sky, the illuminating bridge reflecting off the river surface and the warm singing that accompanied.
Many classic cities have the well-adorned cafes where even regardless of the need for food or drink, the agenda is just to be there and stay for a bit. It may be a mixed clientele of curious tourists, cool locals and richer people who are willing to pay to be there, but there's no point avoiding it just to stay away from the other tourists (keep in mind being away from tourists comes more down to season and day of the week rather than where you go I think).
Majestic Cafe is indeed majestic. Regal and beautifully decorated (on the inside at least) and with more history spanning back to 1921 than I could ever appreciate it for.
Coffee is coffee - I'm not an appreciator; it was something appropriate to have. However the Rabanadas Majestic-style was a wonderful sweet snack of warm bread cooked with honey and wine and topped with cinnamon sugar, nuts and dried fruit. An unexpectedly fantastic treat for any time of day or night. I didn't try this anywhere else, and from photos of other versions online, I think this is quite an immaculate and upmarket version. Would go back for this any day.
Arriving late at night in Porto doesn't lend itself to many eating options. I'd read about the Rua Galerie de Paris as having a lovely bar to relax, have some drinks and listen to some lounging music played by the DJs. The area does have a certain element of dark coolness about it. On a heavily raining evening, it seemed appropriate that aimless wandering looking for something to eat wasn't an option, and something in the area would be ideal. Luckily this place was not only open until late, the food was good and located very near the Era uma vez en Paris bar where I tasted my favourite port all trip (it was a red, is all I remember...)
Eating before drinking is also recommended (as well as after) so onto the food:
- Green Cabbage Soup
- Codfish Pancakes
- Peixinhos da Horta (Fried Greenbeans) - delicious salty bar snack;
- Black Pork Neck with Acorda, Mushrooms, Asparagus - acorda is a bread-based stew creamy, warm and filling. It well complemented the pork.
There's a lot of good sounding dishes on the menu making use of the region's regarded seafood. I'd probably lean that way more next time (although black pig is always difficult to refuse). Stay in the area for a few drinks afterwards.
Sintra is home to some of the finest gardens, castles and architecture that I've seen. It really is beautiful in this area. Unbeknownst to me (at the time), it happens to also have one of the most highly reputed sweet bakeries. Funnily enough after my soup at Alcobaca, the waiter asked if I wanted anything else. I asked if they had queijada to which he replied we don't, but the place down the road is the best.
The crowd outside which spilled around the inside counter showed that this was a place to visit. After taking a number in true deli fashion, you wait to order and stare at the goodies being dished up around you.
The two essential things to try are: queijada and travesseiro. There's a lot of others, but being on my own and not a big sweet tooth, that seemed enough calories for the afternoon.
- quiejada - essentially a custard tart, and not a cheesecake as I was expecting. Still nice;
- travesseiro - soft pastry that is filled with an egg and almond cream and topped with sprinkled sugar.
Join the masses. Try the local sweet delicacies. You shouldn't avoid it.
After a few shots of ginjinha in chocolate cups and buying a bottle to save for the weekend, I swayed and asked the shopkeeper where I should eat. Sintra is supposedly well known for the percebe or goose barnacles. Given my fantastic experience at Ramiro, I was keen to hunt them out. Sadly the seafood restaurants (such as the reputed Nautilus) are along the beach area of the region, and not near Sintra the town. Sighing sadly, I asked for a recommendation in town. The shopkeeper suggested the best in town was Alcobaca - "you can't miss it. There is a big shark in front."
It was mid afternoon so I didn't want a big meal. On the other hand I hadn't eaten lunch and had hiked for about 5 hours.
- Sopa de Bacalhau com fruitas do mar - soup served in bread gets me ever since San Francisco's Boudin experience. This bread was much more plain and quite a chewy outside and inside. The soup was nice and thick with some small prawns and clams amongst the fish.
I'd be happy to come back here again. The staff were friendly, the food was fine, the location is convenient. Maybe the prawns or clams dishes to try next time.
Otherwise if you have time, are willing to travel a little (probably by car), then A Raposa and restaurant GSpot are supposedly the best places to eat in Sintra with incredible seafood and percebes. Definitely something to plan for...