For breakfast overlooking Taksim square...
You'd think that given the popularity of doner kebabs at 3am all over the world that Istanbul would have the same drunk food. And yes there certainly is, but the reputation is overshadowed by the islak burger. It is at it appeared in the photos - a soggy humidified burger with a salty patty.
I had the pleasure of trying one sober (opportunistic) and can happily say I don't need to have it again.
It may seem like a much better idea when completed wasted though...
Back in the days before the ease of internet restaurant reviews (let alone in English) it was a much harder effort finding places. Due to a combination of my Rough Guide to Europe and the casual wandering around Taksim for a couple of days, I ended up at Zubeyir in search of a good grilled meal.
The seating in front of the charcoal meats is the perfect location of watching the choices go from raw to smoke to yours.
Delicious.
There's a few reasons to go to the Asia side of Istanbul - to view Sultanahmet from the ferry, to wander through the food markets, to get away from the hordes of tourists, and lastly to eat at Ciya.
Before the easily accessible days of tourist Google maps, I didn't know where Ciya actually was within the Asia side. After asking in a bakery and confusing them with my mispronunciation, we eventually worked it out (it's pronounced "chi-ya") down the road. I didn't realise there are actually two branches of this and there wasn't any information online back then on the difference. Apparently the full restaurant is better than the kebab one (as I recently read in 2017), but I'm sure both are ok.
These days there's still no more famous restaurant in Istanbul, at least on the Asia side, but there's plenty more reviews available and choices.
I'll make a more dedicated effort to be back there when I return to Istanbul one day...
Spanish hams £8.75
Sourdough £2.5
Sea trout £6.25
Squid £5.25
Prawns £6.75
Pork Belly £6.25
Duck £7
Lamb gigot £6.75
Panna cotta £5.25
Grilled figs £5.25
Apple frittelli £5.25
Shilin night market is Taipei's largest and most famous. I spent a good 2 hours wandering back and forth, absorbing the smells and atmosphere, and trying to figure out what to eat.
Without much background into Taiwan's or the market's specialties, I settled on an oyster omelette, oyster noodles and aiyu jelly drink.
After eating all this I found some enormous fried chicken (schnitzel) for sale and a long queue. This triggered my interested and I wrestled for about 30mins deciding if I could stomach one. In the end my greed didn't win and I left with only the visual memory of it. In hindsight I should've taken advantage of the opportunity (as I've since discovered the chicken is probably the most well known food there) but I may as well save it for if I ever go back to Taiwan.
I hadn't done any research into Taipei eating other than the food markets. I expected that since I had a few tourist things to visit, there'd be something along the way I could find. My day's agenda was to visit Taipei 101 and the 91st floor observatory.
It may have been a small copout to eat in a food court, but the beef noodles being advertised seemed a good idea to warm up my body.
After eating it was time to find the observatory and see Taipei from the heights. It was quite chilly outside so as the sun set I enjoys the views through the windows and spend a good few hours passing time.
Using the Lonely Planet, there was one place in Guilin I really wanted to try. The book even warned me about the rickety bridge required to get there but my sense of adventure gave me the strength to cross (and take photos).
Once there it seemed apparent the restaurant was closed or finished or just not to be found. I struggled to find out where it was or what happened and in the end an elderly man shooed. Oh well, you can't win them all.
Back in town I walked past many young people eating breakfast noodles out of small takeaway containers. I mustered up the courage to ask a young male what it was, and he said "mifen" and directed me inside the corridor of a building. I came across a small noodle cafe. After watching them compile noodles in a silver bowel for other customers, I ordered one of the same. They compiled it for me and topped it with some kind of (likely MSG-happy) liquid for flavour.
The dish was delicious. Umami and textural with different ingredients.
I've since tried to find a recipe for it online with no luck. I've come across a restaurant in the USA that supposedly sells it and some kind of strange video of a guy stealing a menu from a mifen shop in China. I hope to one day eat this again.
