Eat Like Ushi

You'd be forgiven for thinking most places in the Balkans serve similar types of ingredients in similar ways. It's because they do. Most restaurants have the local specialties and otherwise a standard way of cooking each type of seafood. That's where something like Azur comes in, bringing Asian fusion to the local ingredients of Croatia. For that reason it is popular, and for that reason anyone who is in Dubrovnik for a short while should eat here. If nothing else, just for the variety.

The atmosphere is nice. Sitting along a stone wall (without insects luckily) in semi-natural mood light. The menu is cheeky and playful in its tone. 

- Pork belly Beijing tacos 68kn for 2 pieces - chewy meat but good with cucumber, hoisin, chilli, spring onion;
- Monkfish in black curry sauce with zucchini rice 158kn - this expensive dish was a surprise in its form. I expected a curry. Instead it was monkfish with firm flesh deepfried and placed on squid ink. I could taste some coconut milk but not any red curry paste. It was served with sushi rice;
- CroAsian style seafood laksa 125kn - nice very thick soup with a good clear chilli kick which is unusual for this region. There was an added lime and more of a curry flavour than a Thai laksa. Small seafood was tasty but the prawns soft rather than crunchy;
- Azur baklava (4 kinds of nuts, spices, kaffir lime leaves, lemongrass, star anise, cinnamon) 38kn - this was odd. The flavour was heavily anise spiced, and also annoying in that there was broken star anise through it which made it hard to eat. I told them this and they said it was the broken piece on top. Clearly not as it was pervasive throughout. Would not order this again.

Jazz versions of Avicii, Swedish House Mafia and Lorde are what it's all about - cool and hip but in a classy way.

As far as Asian fusion places go, this certainly wasn't one of the best I've had. But like I said, it's different and you need that in Croatia. Kudos on them for trying. I'd go back again.

It's an odd place. At night there is sultry jazz to listen whilst enjoying cocktails.

During the day, all drinks are 50% off.

Additionally it is the only place (I could find anyway) that had ustipci. Ever since these homemade gems were served to us in Montenegro along the Via Dinarica (http://eatlikeushi.posthaven.com/guesthouse-nedajno-montenegro-09-2018), I was searching them out one last time before leaving the Balkans.

Those at Troubadour and not overly similar and not as good as in Nedajno. But they did suffice. And the sour cream to eat them with wasn't bad either.

On my one and only other visit to Dubrovnik, I fondly remember my final dinner being at Lokanda Peskarija (http://eatlikeushi.posthaven.com/lokanda-peskarija-dubrovnik-10-2012). On that occasion I sat inside (being colder and at night) but feasted on the most delicious charred squid my tongue has ever known.

For the final meal on this visit to Dubrovnik, I had to visit there again. Now that it was warm and sunny, a seat watching passersby, the boats and the mountains made for a different atmosphere.

The prices have escalated up by 50-100% since the last time. Hmmm. Such is the life of somewhere driven by tourism and Game Of Thrones.

- Mussels 104kn - as is typical for the region, the mussels are small and kept bearded. They are very flavoursome serves in salty water, and sometimes too potent but still strangely addictive with bread;
- Grilled squid 123kn - I thought it was a smaller serve but comparing photos now it probably is the same (with a 64% price rise). Tasty char of the squid was once again present and ripped through the sauce with with lemon, and bread to drag all the flavours together. Not as charred stiff as last time, but still good.

If I'm back in Dubrovnik, I'll come here again. I hope the prices won't have gone up by another 50-100%.

There's a few icecreameries in Dubrovnik although none seem to have extremely high ratings. Dolce Vita is a creperie that also has icecream. If I'm honest, I didn't think the icecream looked very good and so didn't try it.

That left Peppino's which is more expensive but appears to be much more a single specialty gelato place.

The Pistachio Premium certainly caught my eye with its thick murky green colour flowing from tart shells. The serve itself was unusual - there's the dark brown sludge on top with some bits of nuts, and this part has all the pistachio flavour. The pale green below was really quite plain and lacking. I enjoyed eating the sludge but not so the pale.

It is likely to be the better gelato place in Dubrovnik, but maybe that just means there isn't a particularly good one (yet)...

This place has remarkably good reviews for its burgers. It seemed like a perfect idea before a walking tour of the city.

Arriving just before opening, we were the first (and for a short while) only customers. There's a counter facing the street where I imagine people will queue for lunch, then sit on the stairs where Barba have placed cushions ready for gluteals. It would be glorious.

On this occasion we were inside and admiring the ridiculous number of creative forks adorning the lamps and walls.

- Anchovies on a bed of arugula with cherry tomatoes 73kn - it was this or the fried squid. Given it was the first meal since waking, we went for the fresher option. It was fine but in retrospect the fried squid looked and smelled fantastic. Don't make the same mistake;
- Fresh oysters 15kn each - I remember having these oysters at the more famous mussel place in the square (http://eatlikeushi.posthaven.com/kamenice-dubrovnik-10-2012). Back then I thought the flavour was pretty good but the oysters themselves are so thin that there is only shivers of meat to chew on. This was the same;
- Shrimp burger 79kn - the octopus burger drew my fancy but the staff member recommended the shrimp. It was a breaded patty with bit of crispy outside texture and minimally discernible pieces of shrimp. The flavour of it was also therefore not that strong in the shrimp department. It was alright but I think I made the mistake of asking which burger she would suggest.

I would go back there but stick to the fried squid and try the octopus burger. The plate Barba might be a good combination of everything fried and fresh.

There's lots of places to choose from within the city walls of Dubrovnik. Knowing which are good is harder. The host of our flat highly recommended Pink Shrimp, and the reviews seemed pretty good. It was also close to the centre strip meaning minimal stair walking to get there. 

From the name you'd expect there to feature a lot of shrimp on the menu, and you'd be correct.

Unfortunately they all seem to be quite small and not all that satisfying. Thinking about this more now, that does seem to be the trend of the Adriatic shrimp.

- Mantecato Orzotto, saffron, shrimp 105kn - barley cooked well and al dente with good chewiness. Small prawns lurking inside. Overall nice;
- Buzara Adriatic shrimp, sea bass, julienne vegetables 115kn - tiny prawns that needed to be peeled. Seemed like a waste of time. Good fish and sauce however.

Expensive for the amount of food in each serve. I think there are better places and better value. I wouldn't go back here.

I would never have thought I'd select a sushi place in Dubrovnik. My reasoning was based on Japanese food in London being expensive and poor quality, that I hadn't had any sashimi for 9 months, Dubrovnik and Croatia generally having reasonably priced and excellent quality local seafood and good reviews online.

The chef I had the pleasure of chatting to is a young man named Marejan, who was taught locally in only a few weeks how to make sushi a few years ago. He since opened Bota to share his skills and make a living. He has never been to Japan and so was keen to ask my feedback on his food.

Unfortunately there was no toro available the day I visited.

- Fresh Oysters €12pp - mild sweet with thin meat only (same as from Kamenice);
- Tiger Prawn Tempura HRK14pp - warm sweet prawns with crisp coating;
- Rainbow Roll (shrimp in panko tempura, avocado, Philadelphia cream cheese, tuna/greater amberjack/salmon on outside) HRK38 - crisp tempura inside surrounded by soft rice with softer varied sashimi outside, nice flavour and texture combination overall;
- Nigiri Salmon & Nigiri Seared Salmon HRK13pp - quality local fish with rich salmon flavour but with more rice:fish than standard nigiri. Rice is also much more strongly vinegared than standard, but this is something I like;
- Salmon Skin Roll (salmon skin, cucumber, avocado, lightly seared salmon/sweet miso/unagi on outside) HRK36 - warm roll good for a colder night with smooth salmon and sweet eel flavours;
- Layered Cake of soft dough base, banana, smooth chocolate on top - this was an experimental dish by Marejan given complimentary to me. It was a tasty topping of deep dark smooth chocolate cream with banana combination. The base was like a doughy flat bread which I wasn't overly fond of. 

Next time I would order the Rainbow and Salmon Skin Rolls as they are the most interesting rolls on the menu. Nigiri is good as the fish quality is great, but you may prefer more fish or weaker rice vinegar if you are used to it. The Tuna Tartar a la Bota also looks like an interesting creation. Also if there is any toro available, I would order it as the price is incredibly cheap.

Support Marejan and eat here.

Just outside the east gates of Dubrovnik and connecting onto the harbour sits Lokanda Peskarija. What was interesting is that the reviews suggest a decent venue for seafood but without the prices you'd expect to be inflated for sitting alongside the harbour front.

For my last night, I ventured here to see for myself. I'm glad I did - it is well worth the combination of location, price and food.

Although on my own, I couldn't help but order enough food to several of me:

- Plata Peskarija (marinated and salted anchovies, fish pate, cheese kept in oil, octopus salad) HRK100 - anchovies were simple and satisfying, octopus salad was tender, fish pate was quite plain and cheese was a cheddar quite weak in flavour;
- Lignji na Caru (grilled squids) HRK75 - an intensely flavoured collection of whole grilled and charred squids in a delicious pool of salty oil and topped with lemon to be absorbed by bread. 

Next time I would order the Grilled Squids for an amazing flavour to make you smile. If there was enough appetite or people, the Platter Lokanda sounds nice to share and I'm sure they'd do a tasty Cuttlefish Risotto also.

Location on the very main central road of Dubrovnik Old Town would ordinarily mean beware. If it wasn't for a specific recommendation I read to have breakfast here, I wouldn't have come.

The prices are made for location and perhaps aimed towards lazier people. I must admit it is an outstanding place to people watch as the hordes filter through the town surrounded by the amazing buildings of Dubrovnik Old Town.

Considering the drinks were priced well beyond what I was willing, I opted for the sole item of Omelette with Dalmatian Smoked Ham HRK72. Smoked Ham is another well regarded gourmet item throughout the region and so it seemed the perfect opportunity to have breakfast, eat at this recommended cafe, people watch and try this meat.

The omelette  itself was very well made with a soft luscious creamy egg interior. The smoked ham was a revelation - beautifully smoked and cured and equivalent taste to some of the best jamon I've eaten. Wow that was unexpected.

Next time I would order the same Omelette with Dalmatian Smoked Ham. If you prefer to keep off the main road, there is another cafe just up from Kamenice in the market square that lists the smoked ham as a breakfast option with or without eggs and other things.

Located in one of the major town squares of Dubrovnik (which also has a uninspiring market during the day) was a place recommended to me specifically for mussels from a local elderly lady whom I was renting a room from. The staff at Kamenice are lovely - because there is only outside seating, it is in their interest to ensure guests are comfortable. On this cold windy day, my reluctance to eat outside was met by the loan of a large thick blanket to wrap around my shoulders and body. It helped a lot to break the wind.

Oysters from the nearby town of Ston are particularly noted and as such I had a few. The flavour is mild and sweet, but they consist of very little meat being extremely thin.

The Orni Rizot HRK70 (cuttlefish risotto) was a large serving of rice, basic salty flavour assisted by lemon, but with only small pieces of cuttlefish littered throughout.

The Musule na Buzara HRK60 mussels were the highlight of anticipation. I counted 63 mussels in the serving. What was most prominent was the white wine flavour was intensely strong with a slight bitterness that actually made the dish more memorable than the standard Brussels equivalent. Unfortunately as tasty and generous as the serving was, the mussels were not debearded properly (or at all) and so each mussel required separating the beard or spitting it out. Not a complete deal breaker, but something to note.

Next time I would order the same trio again. The oysters are cheap and worth trying. The risotto is a nice staple. The mussels are the main feature and as long as you don't mind the beards too much, they are delicious and different.