Eat Like Ushi

On a dreary humid, rainy Monday, I searched for a late lunch. Vincente had a reputation for good prawns so I sought it out. I liked the counter side but didn't realise they also have a seated section on the other side. I ended up there which was fine, although the atmosphere was quite different.

I wasn't sure if it was grilled or fried prawns that were the special. I suppose my clue should have been the grilled where listed on the menu first and "Gambas Plancha" is in big writing at the front of the cooking window. I asked my server which was better - he answered something I couldn't decipher in typical Andalusian Spanish, and before you knew it I had both. Hmmm.

The little grilled ones were clearly better. Much more flavoursome although it could also be that they were heavily coated in salt. The fried ones were plain and seemed to lack flavour.

I'll try somewhere else next time. The Atarazanas market is a much better option in my opinion.

On my first gelato day, I tried the well known Casa Mira. It is known for turron (fudge) but I didn't really want that. The shop is located on the main street too, which is convenient but would it live up to reputation?

I tried the pistachio, Malaga (which they told me was red wine) and was surprised to find horchata (which they told me they made in-house from tigernuts/chufas). The gelato was ok, nothing particularly special, although not bad by any means. The horchata was quite simple and I liked that it wasn't coated in cinnamon and not as sweet as the typical Valencia.

I wouldn't go back for the gelato, I'd go to Bico de Xeado instead (http://eatlikeushi.posthaven.com/bico-de-xeado-malaga-04-2019).

Atarazanas market is a wonderful place. There are 3 different sections of the market, 1 dedicated to fruit and vegetables, 1 to meat and 1 to seafood. Within each of these sections are a few standup counters (although some serve food at tables outside) where you can stand around, order fresh seafood and have a drink.

It's hard to know which to go to. I looked online and saw Bar Atarazanas mentioned and so looked there. An elderly gentleman local to Malaga told me he thought this one was the best, but each had their own opinion. I suppose it would be easiest to look at the menu and see what you want to eat. For example this bar does not have gambas rojos or carabineros, if that was what you were after.

- Mejillones (mussels) €6 - from the menu I thought these were grilled, but they are steamed. After my initial disappointment I savoured them and enjoyed the rich mussel saline flavour and particularly the fact that these mussels actually fill the shell!;
- Navajas (razor clams) €4.5 - gorgeous pieces with herbs, salt, paprika and garlic oil. Divine, especially for that price;
- Conchas finas (smooth clams) €2.5 - he asked if I wanted this grilled. Instead I took it raw and I like raw clams. This was average and didn't have nearly as much ocean flavour as I hoped. I wouldn't get it again;
- Pincho de pulpo (octopus skewer) €3.5 - other stalls served a whole tentacle grilled but that would be too much food. So this little skewer had to suffice. It wasn't the best I've had, but it was adequate.

I also tried my neighbour's fried jibia (cuttlefish) which was similar but thinner and slightly crunchy compared to calamari.

I would happily go back to this market anytime including eating here or elsewhere. There is so much to take home to cook too...

Casa Lola was one of the few places I wanted to hit on the tapas route. However the first two times, hunger was higher than patient for the queue that stretched onto the street. The other places were La Tranca (but this only has a very limited tapas menu), Las Merchanas (which I didn't get to) or trying a local restaurant of which Meson Mariano was top of my list (but again didn't get to).

Third time was a charm and also going at 11pm (on a Tuesday) when the masses had settled. It's a very local tavern setting although the number of seats means it isn't setup for standing and eating. Once you get through the long menu and see the sorts of dishes, you'll understand why.

- Porra Antequerana €2 - the local version of salmorejo was a cold soup delicious with garlic, topped with savoury jamon and tuna and perfectly eaten with bread. Really excellent;
- Croquetas €2 - small discs of fried ox tail;
- Abre los ojos (tomate ort, corazon de alcachofa, bechamel y virutas jamon iberico) €3 - an eclectic dish of (almost blue) cheese sauce, artichoke heart, sprinkles of jamon and a bit of vinegar;
- Pancetamol (rabo de toro, panceta iberica, salsa de vino y miel de cana) €3.5 - a disc of ox tail meat with a sweet honey sauce served in flat bread.

The prices for the quality were simply outstanding. I'm not surprised at the queues. The drinks were ok too - although the sangria had an unusual distinct taste that I couldn't put my finger on.

Avoid the rush if you can, but if you can't then it's worth the queue.

 There's a few reputed gelato places (heladeria in Spanish) in Malaga. I only tried two, but the look and appeal of this Galician one turned out very well. In fact I'd be hard pressed to say I've ever had any better than this.

Look at the colour of that pistachio - a distinct brown colour and the manager said it is more nut and less sugar. It sure tasted like it too. I have had a couple in Italy that are so pure nut it is almost like eating pistachio butter, and to me that is probably a bit too far. But this was a good balance with more emphasis on the nutty side and creamy.

The coconut had little tufts of coconut flesh and a strong flavour.

Wow. I wanted to go back but ran out of time...